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Posted by Charly the Bastard on September 22, 2005, 4:34 pm
Please log in for more thread options John FLy wrote:
> Are there any combinations of stainless that can be (forge)welded
> together that could be etched to bring out a pattern?
>
You betcha.
> If so what types of SS would I be needing?
>
You'll need a 400 series and a 200 or 300 series. The 400 hardens up, the
200 and 300 don't. Think twice as many 400 series layers as the others.
After you heat treat and etch, the echant will attack the 400 series for
its carbon. You can get quite a deep etch with hydrochloric. 304 will
polish up mirror bright and is very 'white' because of the high nickel
content, and it's one of the toughest, most fiberous alloys I've ever had
the misfortune to work with. This stuff is like wrought iron when it comes
to absorbing a bending force, it eats fiber grinder disks for breakfast. It
makes an excellent 'soft' part. It also resists blueing if you wnat to blue
or parkerize the hard part to highlight the pattern.
>
> ALSO: oxide question
>
> How fast does the natural oxide layer build up on stainless?
>
Not that fast, months.
>
> I've done some SS to carbon steel forge welding... I've even done it
> with an oxy/acetelyne torch and a couple of firebricks(nothing big this
> way)...
>
> I normally grind then sand my steels to a good clean surface...
> sometimes near mirror. I always leave my SS until last.. I don't know
> if it helps but i figure the less time it has to form an oxide layer
> the better.
>
> I worry that if I spend time prepareing many pieces of SS that an oxide
> layer might build up on the first pieces, almost undoing some of my
> prep..
>
> Should I worry? What can I do if it might be a problem?
There's no such thing as too much flux. Prep? Oh, you mean burning all the
oilfield crud off the metal... that's what the flux is for. Flux
encapsulates the metal, which keeps the oxygen off it in the fire, it
chemically cleans the metal, and carries the foreign material away when you
hit it with the hammer.
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