Annealing a rail
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Subject Author Date
Annealing a rail Ignoramus5425 09-25-2006
Posted by Ignoramus5425 on September 25, 2006, 10:37 am
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I have a piece of railroad rail that I may use for making a little
homemade anvil (just a fun project with scrap materials such as that
rail and 4140 bars). That rail is a light gauge rail, maybe from a
tram line or a factory railroad, I am not sure.

To weld on a 4140 bar, I suppose, it is best to flatten the rail's
top.

Since it may be work hardened (I suppose I could check that with a
regular file), I suppose that it would be wise to anneal it, by, say,
putting it in a decent wood fire and then, once it gets hot, into sand
such as that on my kids' playground.

i


Posted by spaco on September 25, 2006, 11:54 am
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I would have sent this to you off-list, but it appears from your address
that it wouldn't get to you and I couldn't figure out how to decode it, so:

Where abouts do you live?

Since it appears that you really do want some sort of anvil, there is
another source to consider. That is the "doorstop" anvil. A
"doorstop" anvil is one that is so badly damaged that its only valid use
is as a doorstop. There are lots of them around. I bought one for $25
at the LaCrosse ABANA conference just because it was sooooo bad.
But, for a guy who is dead-set on welding a new face onto something,
this may be the way to go. Just try to avoid the cast iron doorstop anvil.

Ignoramus5425 wrote:
> I have a piece of railroad rail that I may use for making a little
> homemade anvil (just a fun project with scrap materials such as that
> rail and 4140 bars). That rail is a light gauge rail, maybe from a
> tram line or a factory railroad, I am not sure.
>
> To weld on a 4140 bar, I suppose, it is best to flatten the rail's
> top.
>
> Since it may be work hardened (I suppose I could check that with a
> regular file), I suppose that it would be wise to anneal it, by, say,
> putting it in a decent wood fire and then, once it gets hot, into sand
> such as that on my kids' playground.
>
> i
>

Posted by Ignoramus5425 on September 25, 2006, 11:55 am
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> I would have sent this to you off-list, but it appears from your address
> that it wouldn't get to you and I couldn't figure out how to decode it, so:
>
> Where abouts do you live?

25 miles west of Chicago, IL. I do not mind receiving mail, as such,
but I try to spamproof my address. I receive mail at ichudov AT
algebra DOT com.

> Since it appears that you really do want some sort of anvil, there
> is another source to consider. That is the "doorstop" anvil. A
> "doorstop" anvil is one that is so badly damaged that its only valid
> use is as a doorstop. There are lots of them around. I bought one
> for $25 at the LaCrosse ABANA conference just because it was sooooo
> bad. But, for a guy who is dead-set on welding a new face onto
> something, this may be the way to go. Just try to avoid the cast
> iron doorstop anvil.


Sounds interesting and I will look for one, though I have not seen one
yet.

i


Posted by spaco on September 25, 2006, 6:48 pm
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Plenty of blacksmiths with extra stuff in that area.
I would contact UMBA or IVBA. They both have newsletters and they are
usually allowing classified ads.

Upper Midwest Blacksmith Association:

Ed: Steve White
PO Box 507
Killduff, IA 50137
(641) 798-4501
skunkriv@yahoo.com

www.umbaonline.org
---------------------------

Illinois Valley Blacksmith Association:

Ed: John R. Lovin
21735 E. Bakerville Road
Belle Rive, IL 62810
(618) 756-2331
anvilman@hamiltoncom.net

www.illinoisblacksmith.org
----------------------------------
The above info for the US and Canada can be found at abana.org.


I was born and raised in Rockford, Il. Now live about 40 miles east of
St. Paul, Mn.


Pete Stanaitis

Ignoramus5425 wrote:
>
>>I would have sent this to you off-list, but it appears from your address
>>that it wouldn't get to you and I couldn't figure out how to decode it, so:
>>
>>Where abouts do you live?
>
>
> 25 miles west of Chicago, IL. I do not mind receiving mail, as such,
> but I try to spamproof my address. I receive mail at ichudov AT
> algebra DOT com.
>
>
>>Since it appears that you really do want some sort of anvil, there
>>is another source to consider. That is the "doorstop" anvil. A
>>"doorstop" anvil is one that is so badly damaged that its only valid
>>use is as a doorstop. There are lots of them around. I bought one
>>for $25 at the LaCrosse ABANA conference just because it was sooooo
>>bad. But, for a guy who is dead-set on welding a new face onto
>>something, this may be the way to go. Just try to avoid the cast
>>iron doorstop anvil.
>
>
>
> Sounds interesting and I will look for one, though I have not seen one
> yet.
>
> i
>

Posted by Rusty_iron on September 30, 2006, 7:32 pm
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Gday Iggy,
I found this thread on the Alex Bealer site, thought it might be useful
to you.
Its related to fixing/repairing an anvil
http://alexbealer.org/node/1914

Regards
Rusty_iron

Ignoramus5425 wrote:

> I have a piece of railroad rail that I may use for making a little
> homemade anvil (just a fun project with scrap materials such as that
> rail and 4140 bars). That rail is a light gauge rail, maybe from a
> tram line or a factory railroad, I am not sure.
>
> To weld on a 4140 bar, I suppose, it is best to flatten the rail's
> top.
>
> Since it may be work hardened (I suppose I could check that with a
> regular file), I suppose that it would be wise to anneal it, by, say,
> putting it in a decent wood fire and then, once it gets hot, into sand
> such as that on my kids' playground.
>
> i


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