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Posted by spaco on April 9, 2007, 12:19 pm
Please log in for more thread options Hello, John.
I receently bought a 14 ga. Milwaukee shear, NIB at a pawn shop for
about $150. I haven't used it yet. Are there any special hints for
operation that you'd care to share?
(I will have to use it only at night, in the dark, so my blacksmith
friends won't find out that I am cheating by using a powered shear
instead of chiseling parts out.)---- Gee, I hope 781 isn't listening.
Pete Stanaitis
Neon John wrote:
> On Sun, 08 Apr 2007 21:54:44 -0500, Prometheus
>
>
>>Hello all,
>
>
>>It's a Stanley Unishear, No. 16-A. It's a wacky looking machine, but
>>it's still running well. All I could find out about it was that the
>>company (Stanley Electric Tool Div.) was founded in 1930- and this
>>thing looks to be old enough (style-wise) to be one of the first
>>things to roll off the assembly line.
>>
>>As noted above, the thing is still running like a champ, and I'm
>>thinking about polishing it up and putting it to work- But, sometimes
>>old stuff like this needs careful handling when restoring it if a guy
>>wants to preserve it's value. It's got a little surface rust on the
>>shear foot, and it appears that it used to have black paint on some
>>areas that has almost entirely worn away.
>>
>>So, anyone know anything about this sucker? Is it some ultra-rare
>>find, or just an old junker that happened to survive?
>
>
> I can't date the thing but I have what is probably its twin. Mine I
> know for sure was bought new post-WWII. They're not that uncommon - I
> see them at estate sales fairly often. I bet Stanley made a
> blue-million of 'em for the war aircraft manufacturing effort.
>
> I'd not worry about any collector's value. Unless still NIB, it has
> none. But it's a workhorse. Rest assured, it'll cut much thicker
> metal than 16 ga :-) If yours hasn't yet had a 3 wire cord added, do
> so. Mine has so much crud embedded in the windings that it'll knock
> the sh*t out of me if I forget the 3 wire extension cord. Runs fine
> when grounded. About 20ma ground current when I measured it.
>
> If you're going to use it much then you might consider disassembling
> it, replacing all the grease, the brushes and perhaps having the
> winding cleaned and VPI'd (vacuum-pressure impregnated), a simple
> process that most electric motor repair shops can perform.
>
> I have a 1/2" B&K all-metal drill that my dad bought right after the
> war. It too started leaking ground current and I used it enough that
> I wanted it fixed. When I took it apart the field windings were
> literally packed with a crud that contained lots of metal filings. No
> wonder the thing leaked. I cleaned the stator overnight in a trike
> vapor degreaser then VPI'd it myself.
>
> This involves putting the stator in a pressure chamber (a canning
> pressure cooker in my case) submerged in electric motor varnish and
> first pulling a vacuum and holding it for awhile to pull out all the
> air, solvent and moisture, and then applying about 20 PSI or so to
> force the varnish back into all the gaps without any airspaces. Pull
> the piece out, bake for a couple of hours to cure the varnish
> (thermoset) and you're done. Clean up all the holes, sand the varnish
> off the stator pole faces and put 'er back together.
>
> VPI is a rather common electric motor repair procedure so most any
> shop can do it for you in a few minutes if you can do the baking at
> home. Or they can sell you a little varnish and you can do your own.
>
> Enjoy that old shear. I certainly have mine. Take a look at what a
> new Milwaukee shear costs and REALLY enjoy it!
>
> John
> ---
> John De Armond
> See my website for my current email address
> http://www.neon-john.com
> Cleveland, Occupied TN
> All great things are simple and many can be expressed in single words:
> Freedom, Justice, Honor, Duty, Mercy, Hope. -Churchill
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