Best machine-able "Damascus" metals : Making rings
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Best machine-able "Damascus" metals : Making rings JohnFlyTn 09-07-2005
Posted by on September 7, 2005, 10:18 am
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Background:
I've been working on some rings using "mokueme-gane" billets for
jewelry... Non-ferrous metals, so they are pretty easy to
cut/drill/form.

I want to create a pattern welded billet to cut rings (the kind you
wear) out of.

I want a simple light/dark contrast... And thinking of using L6 or
nickel or nickel silver and some type of carbon steel.

My question is:

What types of metal would be best suited for this? Since I want to
actually "machine" the ring from a solid piece of stock I'll need
something I can drill and grind with out much trouble.

What combinations would you suggest for this purpose


Posted by Charly the Bastard on September 7, 2005, 4:11 pm
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JohnFlyTn@msn.com wrote:

> Background:
> I've been working on some rings using "mokueme-gane" billets for
> jewelry... Non-ferrous metals, so they are pretty easy to
> cut/drill/form.
>
> I want to create a pattern welded billet to cut rings (the kind you
> wear) out of.
>
> I want a simple light/dark contrast... And thinking of using L6 or
> nickel or nickel silver and some type of carbon steel.
>
> My question is:
>
> What types of metal would be best suited for this? Since I want to
> actually "machine" the ring from a solid piece of stock I'll need
> something I can drill and grind with out much trouble.
>
> What combinations would you suggest for this purpose

I'd go with one of the 'food grade' stainlesses for the light part, and
W2 (Nicholson file stock) for the dark part, then heat treat in oil
after machining. The 200 and 300 SS series are non heat treatable, and
will retain their 'whiteness' after quenching. The W2 will go very dark
gray with granular highlights. Zebra...





Posted by on September 7, 2005, 4:13 pm
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Any good common source for either?

I'm guessing since you mention "food grade" I could just hunt for junk
pieces of stainless kitchenware?


Posted by Charly the Bastard on September 8, 2005, 7:30 am
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JohnFlyTn@msn.com wrote:

> Any good common source for either?
>
> I'm guessing since you mention "food grade" I could just hunt for junk
> pieces of stainless kitchenware?

Think resturant equipment, that'll most likely be 304. Take a magnet to
the scrapyard, 200 and 300 SS aren't magnetic. Stainless isn't easy to
work with. You GOTTA get rid of the oxygen before you push to weld heat.
Flux the billet until it looks like it's dipped in molten glass. With
stainless, there's no such thing as 'too much flux'. Expect a steep
learning curve and a lot of scrap iron, I get lucky about one in four.

As to machining, 304 is one of the toughest non heat-treatable alloys I've
encountered. It eats resin grinder disks for breakfast. It will work
fairly easy with HSS tooling, just ease up on the feed rate. It can be a
real pain in the arse, but it's gorgeous. I made sword hardware out of it
over two decades ago, and it's still a mirror. I can count the hairs in my
mustache at arm's length.

Charly




Posted by on September 7, 2005, 4:28 pm
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JohnFlyTn@msn.com wrote:
> I've been working on some rings using "mokueme-gane" billets for
> jewelry...

> I want a simple light/dark contrast... And thinking of using L6 or
> nickel or nickel silver and some type of carbon steel.

Have you ever heard of "nickel allergy"?

A ring made using Ni may be fine for awhile but sooner or later the
nickel allergy will -prob'ly- show up. People that wear rings made
from Fe-Ni meteorite keep a coat of fingernail polish inside of
their rings.

Do what you want... just want you to know, before you run into
trouble later.

Alvin in AZ

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