Cleaning up anvil repair
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Subject Author Date
Cleaning up anvil repair Rob 12-29-2006
Posted by Rob on December 29, 2006, 10:32 am
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I was given an anvil about 10 years ago which was badly swaybacked and
gouged up and so I built it back up with hardfacing rod. I was able to
clamp some aluminum to the sides of the face so that I could run the
bead right up to the edge, but my attempts to put some sort of backing
into the hardy and pritchel holes was a flop Now there is some
overflow into both of them. I recently got back into the fire after
perhaps 6 or 8 years a few weeks ago and remembered how much I loved
it. Now I'd like to dress those holes if I can. McMaster-Carr sells a
1/8" shank cubic boron nitride grinding bit for hard metals which are
suitable for my dremel tool. However, it recommends a
sulpho-chlorinated oil coolant. Since I am not going to be able to
flood the workpiece, how should I proceed? Drip a little on, grind a
little, rinse, lather, repeat? What is a good brand of coolant to use
here? Do I also need to wear a respirator in addition to safety
glasses?

Thanks for your help,
Rob


Posted by Steve Smith on December 29, 2006, 10:49 am
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A Dremel tool will be pretty slow. If you use it too hard, it may burn
out. A good tool for this is a die grinder. You can get air or electric.
I've never used anything like a boron nitride tool, I've just used
standard abrasives. It does take a lot of grinding.
I definitely recommend a dust mask.

Steve

Rob wrote:

>I was given an anvil about 10 years ago which was badly swaybacked and
>gouged up and so I built it back up with hardfacing rod. I was able to
>clamp some aluminum to the sides of the face so that I could run the
>bead right up to the edge, but my attempts to put some sort of backing
>into the hardy and pritchel holes was a flop Now there is some
>overflow into both of them. I recently got back into the fire after
>perhaps 6 or 8 years a few weeks ago and remembered how much I loved
>it. Now I'd like to dress those holes if I can. McMaster-Carr sells a
>1/8" shank cubic boron nitride grinding bit for hard metals which are
>suitable for my dremel tool. However, it recommends a
>sulpho-chlorinated oil coolant. Since I am not going to be able to
>flood the workpiece, how should I proceed? Drip a little on, grind a
>little, rinse, lather, repeat? What is a good brand of coolant to use
>here? Do I also need to wear a respirator in addition to safety
>glasses?
>
>Thanks for your help,
>Rob
>
>
>

Posted by spaco on December 29, 2006, 11:30 am
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I suggest you post this question to rec.crafts.metalworking

A guy who is good with a cutting torch could trim those holes pretty neatly.


Pete Stanaitis
------------------

Rob wrote:
> I was given an anvil about 10 years ago which was badly swaybacked and
> gouged up and so I built it back up with hardfacing rod. I was able to
> clamp some aluminum to the sides of the face so that I could run the
> bead right up to the edge, but my attempts to put some sort of backing
> into the hardy and pritchel holes was a flop Now there is some
> overflow into both of them. I recently got back into the fire after
> perhaps 6 or 8 years a few weeks ago and remembered how much I loved
> it. Now I'd like to dress those holes if I can. McMaster-Carr sells a
> 1/8" shank cubic boron nitride grinding bit for hard metals which are
> suitable for my dremel tool. However, it recommends a
> sulpho-chlorinated oil coolant. Since I am not going to be able to
> flood the workpiece, how should I proceed? Drip a little on, grind a
> little, rinse, lather, repeat? What is a good brand of coolant to use
> here? Do I also need to wear a respirator in addition to safety
> glasses?
>
> Thanks for your help,
> Rob
>

Posted by Rob on December 29, 2006, 12:04 pm
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spaco wrote:
> I suggest you post this question to rec.crafts.metalworking
>
> A guy who is good with a cutting torch could trim those holes pretty neatly.
>
>
> Pete Stanaitis
> ------------------
>

I did the hardfacing in a couple of welding classes I took at the local
community college. At one point, the instructor was demonstrating
air-arc gouging and trimmed up the hardie hole for me. However, he
trimmed it too far back and then I added too much hard facing. I have
a cutting torch, but I don't feel like i am steady enough to avoid
cutting something I don't want to. The dremel tool should be a little
more finely controllable. I don't have a lot of material to remove.

I will post this to r.c.m, though.

Thanks for your help,
Rob


Posted by RAM³ on December 29, 2006, 12:45 pm
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>
> spaco wrote:
>> I suggest you post this question to rec.crafts.metalworking
>>
>> A guy who is good with a cutting torch could trim those holes pretty
>> neatly.
>>
>>
>> Pete Stanaitis
>> ------------------
>>
>
> I did the hardfacing in a couple of welding classes I took at the local
> community college. At one point, the instructor was demonstrating
> air-arc gouging and trimmed up the hardie hole for me. However, he
> trimmed it too far back and then I added too much hard facing. I have
> a cutting torch, but I don't feel like i am steady enough to avoid
> cutting something I don't want to. The dremel tool should be a little
> more finely controllable. I don't have a lot of material to remove.
>
> I will post this to r.c.m, though.
>
> Thanks for your help,
> Rob
>
>


If your Hardie is 1" or larger, you might want to consider one of the 1"
belt "files" for the job since it could help with the squaring of the hole
as well as maintaining flat sides.

The Dremel will be facing 2 problems:

        1. Depth: few burrs are long enough to reach all the way through
        2. Taper: it's a bear to maintain any taper with a rotary tool

Of course, if you want to take the time, there's always the old-fashioned
file...

BTW, I've been known to wear out all kinds of rotary tools...


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