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Finding Tools Save Ferrous! 05-24-2007
Posted by Save Ferrous! on May 24, 2007, 5:59 pm
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I'm fresh from my intro blacksmithing course at Peters Valley (http://
www.petersvalley.org/2007%20Workshops/blacksmithing2007_wrkshpschd.htm)
and the smithy bug has bitten deep. Thanks to the news group, I'll
shop around for a tiny farrier's forge (figure I'll only be beating on
rebar and whatever scraps I can find plus I'm in a tight neighborhood
with plenty of nosy/whiny neighbors) and I can probably get a good
section of train rail for a starter anvil. What I want to know is,
does anyone have a good source for new/used tools? And if so, what
tools should a beginner have? After taking the class, I figure that a
bare minimum is a good hammer, tongs, a vice and a hardie. Any
thoughts/suggestions are welcome.


Posted by Fred Holder on May 24, 2007, 7:02 pm
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> I'm fresh from my intro blacksmithing course at Peters Valley
(http://www.petersvalley.org/2007%20Workshops/blacksmithing2007_wrkshpschd.htm)
> and the smithy bug has bitten deep. Thanks to the news group, I'll
> shop around for a tiny farrier's forge (figure I'll only be beating on
> rebar and whatever scraps I can find plus I'm in a tight neighborhood
> with plenty of nosy/whiny neighbors) and I can probably get a good
> section of train rail for a starter anvil. What I want to know is,
> does anyone have a good source for new/used tools? And if so, what
> tools should a beginner have? After taking the class, I figure that a
> bare minimum is a good hammer, tongs, a vice and a hardie. Any
> thoughts/suggestions are welcome.


[Editor's Note: This series of articles is
designed to tell a story, that I hope will
be interesting, it is about how one person
learned the craft of blacksmithing,
namely, me. You don't have to have fancy
tools to start to learn this craft, but a
little knowledge and a little scrounging
can get you started. After the events described
in this story occurred, I was a
confirmed blacksmithing addict. Hopefully,
the series of articles will provide
some insight for new and aspiring blacksmiths
and some chuckles for the old timers.]
I was interested in gunsmithing or
gunmaking, especially the muzzle loading
style of guns from my teenage years
and read every book I could lay my hands
on concerning this craft. When I left the
service in 1954, I moved to Denver, Colorado
to attend the Colorado School of
Trades Gunsmithing Course. It took about
one and one half years of night school,
six hours a night, five nights a week to
realize that I was never going to be good
enough to make a living at gunsmithing.
I lacked the artistic traits needed to succeed
at this craft in the high-end
gunmaking where one could earn a living.
I discovered that most gunsmiths had
a job to support their work as gunsmiths
or a wife with a full time job to support
them. So, I went back to school for a few
more years.
It was almost 20 years before I could
again look at making guns. This time it
was muzzleloading guns from kits. I became
actively involved in the muzzle loading
hobby, joined a club, and began attending
rendezvous. I made a few muzzle
loading rifles and pistols, but was still not
happy with my capabilities. The guns
were ok, they just didn't have the finesse
of guns made by more skillful craftsmen.
I began to see stuff made by blacksmiths
and this intrigued me. I knew nothing
about blacksmithing, except remembering
my father taking a piece of broken
farm machinery to the local blacksmith
to have it repaired. I never did see the
fellow work.
I kept talking about blacksmithing
until my wife, a frequent visitor to the
library, picked up a book at the library
on blacksmithing: "The Art of Blacksmithing"
by Alex Bealer. I read it cover
to cover, but it had to go back to the library
at the end of two weeks. My wife
kept checking out the book by Bealer from
the library for me, until she became tired
of it and purchased me my own copy. I
have no idea how many times I read this
book, some parts a dozen or more times.
I had a nice flintlock rifle and wanted
a vent pick that was forged to add to my
kit. I couldn't find a nice forged one anyplace.
I now knew a little bit about blacksmithing,
perhaps I could make one, but
had no tools. That was the beginning of
my blacksmithing, about late 1975 I think.
I would make a vent pick for my rifle.
I started to scrounge up tools from
the garage. I turned up an old tractor
wheel weight, a pair of vice grips, a small
ball pien hammer, a machinist vise, and
a propane torch. I needed some iron (or
steel) to use as stock. There was a wire
hanger at hand. I had used them as welding
rod when I was going to gunsmiths
school so why wouldn't it work as forging
material. Now, I was all set, I had
read the book, gathered some tools and
reality was at hand.
I wanted the vent pick to be made
from square stock. So, first, I heated a
short section of the wire with the torch
and hammered it square using the wheel
weight as an anvil. I squared quite a bit
of that stock before it began to look
square and fairly even. At least the stock
was cheap, I wasn't wasting expensive
steel. Actually, what I was doing was one
of the basic blacksmithing tasks, making
round stock square. Next, I needed to
draw it to a taper. This wasted a bit more
stock. Now, I finally had a piece of steel
that had been made square and then tapered
to a point. I now, cut it off with a
pair of wire cutters and drew a shorter
taper on the other end and put a little curl
at the tip by hammering lightly on the tip
while it was red hot. Perhaps by accident
or knowledge gained from the book, it
looked pretty good.
Now, I heated it a little ways down
from the tip and hammered lightly over
the edge of the wheel weight. Slowly, with
light taps the end curled over until the
little curl touched the main part of the
stock. I had a loop at one end to attach
this thing to my possibles bag strap. It
looked almost like a campfire iron that I
had seen at rendezvous, except that the
campfire iron had a twist in its shank.
Again I heated a section of the square
section a little way from where the curl
touched the shaft, clamped the other end
in the vise with the hot section just sticking
out. I grabbed the loop with the vice
grips and gave the thing a full turn. Wow!
This was great and I was hooked.
This little story describes how I began
to learn the blacksmithing process.
In coming issues, I hope to lead you
through the search path that I went
through to gather information needed to
learn how to do the various blacksmithing
processes and hopefully describe the
amount of practice needed to accomplish
them.

Fred Holder


Posted by Fred Holder on May 24, 2007, 7:07 pm
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Sorry, I forgot to tell you where that article came from. It was
published in the November 2002 issue of Blacksmith's Gazette. There
were a total of 10 articles on How I learned to blacksmith.

Fred Holder
<http://www.fholder.com>


Posted by Trevor Jones on May 24, 2007, 7:06 pm
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Save Ferrous! wrote:
> I'm fresh from my intro blacksmithing course at Peters Valley (http://
> www.petersvalley.org/2007%20Workshops/blacksmithing2007_wrkshpschd.htm)
> and the smithy bug has bitten deep. Thanks to the news group, I'll
> shop around for a tiny farrier's forge (figure I'll only be beating on
> rebar and whatever scraps I can find plus I'm in a tight neighborhood
> with plenty of nosy/whiny neighbors) and I can probably get a good
> section of train rail for a starter anvil. What I want to know is,
> does anyone have a good source for new/used tools? And if so, what
> tools should a beginner have? After taking the class, I figure that a
> bare minimum is a good hammer, tongs, a vice and a hardie. Any
> thoughts/suggestions are welcome.
>
Instead of shopping around, why not build a small gas forge?

For a cut off hardie, I use a section of old chevy spring welded fast
and dirty to the side of a section of square that fits the hardie hole.
Sharpen it from one side only, and you can cut off to leave a
square(ish) shoulder, rather than having to rework the face. Cheap and
disposable.

Different strokes for different folks. I like to use a couple
different hammers, for different things. I like a lighter hammer, and
dislike spending a great deal of time swinging a 4 pound hammerhead
around. I like doing lighter work, too. Once you figure out what length
hammer handle you are comfortable with, cut the rest off. Saves
listening to the sexual intellectuals that will tell you that you are
supposed to grip it way out at the end and such. Put the end where works
for you. Keep a couple spare handle blanks around for when you feel the
need to change it up, too. Depending on what you do, you may wish a fair
number of hammers. I watched one guy doing demo's with a five pound
cross peen hammer. He was terrible, but insisted that you could not
possibly do good work with any lighter. :-/

A couple decent sets of tongs will cover a lot of ground. No need to
go nuts, but at least one set of flat and one set of round jawed ones
will do almost everything I feel like doing. A shitty pair of garage
sale vice grips works wonders. Modifying the jaws is allowed too. :-)

A cheap bench vise on a solid mount is far better than no vise.
Replace the serrated jaws with some flat ones or grind down the faces so
that they will grip without leaving honking great marks on the work.
Make a couple twisting wrenches, or weld a handle onto a old crescent
wrench to be able to use two handed. For that matter an old crescent
wrench without an added handle will do a lot, too.

A wooden hammer or a rawhide one (smelly) is good for beating twisted
sections into line, without leaving hanner marks on the edges.

Don't get tied in knots if you cannot find a huge anvil. You are going
to be building smaller work anyways. Get as good an anvil as you can,
but don't obsess about it. Use what you can get, it's better than not
having one. You could treat yourself to a new cast steel one from
Harbour Freight, if they still sell them.

Get the Centaur Forge catalog, if only to have some prices to show the
insurance company if the stuff is ripped off. (Does anyone actually pay
that much?)

A couple full lenght sticks of,say, 1/4, or 3/8 square stock are
pretty cheap. A hacksaw is all you need to cut them up for to fit them
into the trunk of a car, or to cart them home on a bus. Buy them from a
steel suplier, if you can find one that will sell in small quantities,
rather than paying the rates the hardware stores sell the stuff for.

Borax from the grocery store is a pretty good welding flux. Anhydrous
is better, but harder to get. You can burn the water out of regular
borax and crush it up, but that cuts into the smithing time. :-)

Garage sales and flea markets. Remember that good smithing tools do
not have to start out as tools meant for smithing.

Some thoughts, anyways.

It's supposed to be fun! If it becomes unfun, why would you be doing it?

Cheers
Trevor Jones


Posted by Save Ferrous! on May 25, 2007, 7:36 am
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> Save Ferrous! wrote:
> > I'm fresh from my intro blacksmithing course at Peters Valley (http://
> >www.petersvalley.org/2007%20Workshops/blacksmithing2007_wrkshpschd.htm)
> > and the smithy bug has bitten deep. Thanks to the news group, I'll
> > shop around for a tiny farrier's forge (figure I'll only be beating on
> > rebar and whatever scraps I can find plus I'm in a tight neighborhood
> > with plenty of nosy/whiny neighbors) and I can probably get a good
> > section of train rail for a starter anvil. What I want to know is,
> > does anyone have a good source for new/used tools? And if so, what
> > tools should a beginner have? After taking the class, I figure that a
> > bare minimum is a good hammer, tongs, a vice and a hardie. Any
> > thoughts/suggestions are welcome.
>
> Instead of shopping around, why not build a small gas forge?
>
> For a cut off hardie, I use a section of old chevy spring welded fast
> and dirty to the side of a section of square that fits the hardie hole.
> Sharpen it from one side only, and you can cut off to leave a
> square(ish) shoulder, rather than having to rework the face. Cheap and
> disposable.
>
> Different strokes for different folks. I like to use a couple
> different hammers, for different things. I like a lighter hammer, and
> dislike spending a great deal of time swinging a 4 pound hammerhead
> around. I like doing lighter work, too. Once you figure out what length
> hammer handle you are comfortable with, cut the rest off. Saves
> listening to the sexual intellectuals that will tell you that you are
> supposed to grip it way out at the end and such. Put the end where works
> for you. Keep a couple spare handle blanks around for when you feel the
> need to change it up, too. Depending on what you do, you may wish a fair
> number of hammers. I watched one guy doing demo's with a five pound
> cross peen hammer. He was terrible, but insisted that you could not
> possibly do good work with any lighter. :-/
>
> A couple decent sets of tongs will cover a lot of ground. No need to
> go nuts, but at least one set of flat and one set of round jawed ones
> will do almost everything I feel like doing. A shitty pair of garage
> sale vice grips works wonders. Modifying the jaws is allowed too. :-)
>
> A cheap bench vise on a solid mount is far better than no vise.
> Replace the serrated jaws with some flat ones or grind down the faces so
> that they will grip without leaving honking great marks on the work.
> Make a couple twisting wrenches, or weld a handle onto a old crescent
> wrench to be able to use two handed. For that matter an old crescent
> wrench without an added handle will do a lot, too.
>
> A wooden hammer or a rawhide one (smelly) is good for beating twisted
> sections into line, without leaving hanner marks on the edges.
>
> Don't get tied in knots if you cannot find a huge anvil. You are going
> to be building smaller work anyways. Get as good an anvil as you can,
> but don't obsess about it. Use what you can get, it's better than not
> having one. You could treat yourself to a new cast steel one from
> Harbour Freight, if they still sell them.
>
> Get the Centaur Forge catalog, if only to have some prices to show the
> insurance company if the stuff is ripped off. (Does anyone actually pay
> that much?)
>
> A couple full lenght sticks of,say, 1/4, or 3/8 square stock are
> pretty cheap. A hacksaw is all you need to cut them up for to fit them
> into the trunk of a car, or to cart them home on a bus. Buy them from a
> steel suplier, if you can find one that will sell in small quantities,
> rather than paying the rates the hardware stores sell the stuff for.
>
> Borax from the grocery store is a pretty good welding flux. Anhydrous
> is better, but harder to get. You can burn the water out of regular
> borax and crush it up, but that cuts into the smithing time. :-)
>
> Garage sales and flea markets. Remember that good smithing tools do
> not have to start out as tools meant for smithing.
>
> Some thoughts, anyways.
>
> It's supposed to be fun! If it becomes unfun, why would you be doing it?
>
> Cheers
> Trevor Jones

Thanks for the advice, Fred and Trevor. I realize that blacksmithing
doesn't need to be a Williamsburg-grade reproduction of the village
smithy. Most of the major tools can be cobbled together from various
sources, but it seemed to me that tongs would be especially hard to
find a suitable replacement for. Vise grips seem way too short to be
useful, especially since I'll be working with short pieces of what-
have-you.

Trevor, I really do like the idea of building my own forge (it appeals
to the computer-modding geek in me), but where to find plans,
materials and the like? Most of my home built projects are pedestrian
at best and I don't want the thing raining chunks of hot metal all
over the backyard. I've never heard of things like Kawool until I
joined this group. Dick Sargent, my instructor at Peters Valley, told
me about a guy who builds his own small forges (4" by 4" by 9"). This
seems more than suitable for a weekend galoot like me.


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