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Posted by BradK on June 9, 2007, 6:20 pm
Please log in for more thread options
> ... purchase a cone mandrel... will be spending some of their time stored
> outside under a tarp....too many tools you know. :<)
>
> .. wish to prevent .. rust to develop during their storage, what would you
> suggest as a protective coating that one could apply?
TMT,
My dad 'painted' the plow shares and moldboards with waste oil. The
plow sat a half year between uses. Dropping the plow in the ground
cleaned the moldboards and carbon from the two-cylinder John Deere
pretty quick.
In the Navy many metal items came from Supply with a grease or grease-
like coating, which my Chief referred to as 'quartermaster'. The
first step was to clean the guck off with a rag, then a solvent. That
was 27 years ago, I don't know if they still do that or not. Leave
about 1/8th inch thick coat at least, then handle carefully ;-)
No coating, short of something like a baked enamel or powdercoat is
going to provide a rust-proof coat for years and years. Under cover
will help, especially if you raise the anvil and cone off the surface
for good drainage, and raise the tarp a bit for good air circulation.
Paint will need to be checked every few months and touched up as
needed. Same with grease. Another old-time coating is linseed oil.
I am told that many older tools were heated about blood temp, then
dipped in linseed oil for a black coating; I haven't tried that yet.
The linseed oil I have used worked well, but needs to be recoated
periodically (6-12 months). Linseed oil would be organic, though.
For woodwork I mix about 1:4 linseed oil with turpentine, to penetrate
the wood better. For your needs it might help, might not, but it does
loosen up an open can of linseed oil that sat around for a few
months. Don't ask.
It is illegal in some places to try to sell a step ladder if you have
painted it -- you can't see the condition of the wood. For the same
reason I would really hesitate to paint the top of the anvil, and
painting the sides might draw some fishy looks, like you forgot and
left it sitting in the Kitchen when the wife was redoing the house.
Unless you use a paint like a clear coat (yes, they do sell clear
paint).
Luck!
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Posted by Prometheus on June 9, 2007, 10:18 pm
Please log in for more thread options wrote:
>In the Navy many metal items came from Supply with a grease or grease-
>like coating, which my Chief referred to as 'quartermaster'. The
>first step was to clean the guck off with a rag, then a solvent. That
>was 27 years ago, I don't know if they still do that or not. Leave
>about 1/8th inch thick coat at least, then handle carefully ;-)
This is similar to the coating that comes on new tools and firearms-
outside of the Navy (and probably inside the Navy as well), it is
called cosmoline. My dad is sort of a survivalist guy, and he and his
buddies used the stuff to coat rifles before placing them in PVC tubes
and burying them in their yards (yeah, I know it's crazy- but that was
him, not me) As far as I've seen, they survive just fine buried
underground with a good coat of the stuff, so it's probably useful for
what the OP has in mind. Here's a link to the product:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1134
My second choice would be lithium grease. It's a PITA to wipe on, but
it is also sold in spray cans with the generic label "white grease."
The stuff is a great lubricant and rust preventative, and I've seen it
hold up for about a year when exposed to the elements. It's about $3
a can. If you do use the wipe-on stuff, it's a good practice to wear
gloves, as it can soak through the pores in your skin. I'm not sure
how much of a problem that is in reality- but in any case, it makes it
a whole lot easier to clean up afterwards if you do.
IIRC, both of them clean off with kerosine when you're ready to get
back to work.
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Posted by Andy Dingley on June 12, 2007, 6:03 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Fri, 08 Jun 2007 17:39:02 -0700, Too_Many_Tools
>Paint comes to mind but especially with the cone,
I'd use a bituminous black paint on the cone.
There's a cone here in Jarkman's workshop. It has been there for years
and _very_ rarely used. Handy thing when you need it, but unless you're
a full-time tyre maker, it's just not something you need to use that
often. Repainting it when needed wouldn't be onerous.
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Posted by dgrup on June 20, 2007, 2:40 pm
Please log in for more thread options > Recently on vacation, I was able to purchase a cone mandrel...been
> looking for a long while.
>
> This cone and an anvil will be spending some of their time stored
> outside under a tarp....too many tools you know. :<)
>
> Since I HATE rust and wish to prevent (or at least strongly
> discourage) any rust to develop during their storage, what would you
> suggest as a protective coating that one could apply?
>
> Paint comes to mind but especially with the cone, paint will be
> scratched off during usage. Another coating could be an oil or LPS3
> finish.
>
> Any suggestions as to what has worked for you?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
Howdy TMT,
You didn't mention what your cone and anvil are made of. If they
happen to be made of wrought iron, then you're in luck, as wrought
iron is self limiting when oxidizing (which is probably one reason
why we have so many still around). Not to say a coat of paint
won't make them more "spiffy" but rather more on the order of
"A scratch or two may not be much to worry about."
I'd suggest using paint in your own "shop color."
dennis
in nca
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Posted by Ken Rose on June 21, 2007, 3:01 pm
Please log in for more thread options dgrup wrote:
> I'd suggest using paint in your own "shop color."
Dirty brownish-gray?
- ken
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