Is 'regidizer' necessary ?
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Is 'regidizer' necessary ? theChas. 05-20-2007
Posted by theChas. on May 20, 2007, 11:35 pm
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I'm just finishing my first propane forge made from a 5 gallon can.
I modified it slightly so it is no longer a cylinder, but is now a vaulted
arch.
The floor consists of two -1" layers of kaolin with a 1.25" firebricks on
the top of this. 3.25 total inches. The arches are 2-1" kaolin layers.
The vaulted roof (8" span, 4" high) seems to be very stable. Will it stay
this way with heat.
I already have the 'rigidizer' so now all I have to do is apply it and dry
it. But I really don't understand the reason for it. It is said that it
reduces the insulation value slightly.
I take it for granted I would be safer to go ahead and apply the rigidizer,
just for drill, if nothing else.
Any input appreciated. .. ..in advance, thanks.



--
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Posted by Chilla on May 21, 2007, 12:44 am
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Hi theChas,

I have found that Kaowool will literally evaporate when directly exposed
to an oxyacetylene torch, however Kaowool treated with Kaowool Rigidizer
wont even go black.

I did an experiment with a piece of Kaowool I treated one half with
Rigidizer and the other half without, and ran an oxyacetylene torch back
and forth over the Kaowool. The untreated half disintegrated, the
treated half was untouched.

If the wool doesn't come into direct contact with an extremely hot flame
I'm sure it will be okay.

This is what I have found, others might have a different experience.




Regards Charles

theChas. wrote:
> I'm just finishing my first propane forge made from a 5 gallon can.
> I modified it slightly so it is no longer a cylinder, but is now a vaulted
> arch.
> The floor consists of two -1" layers of kaolin with a 1.25" firebricks on
> the top of this. 3.25 total inches. The arches are 2-1" kaolin layers.
> The vaulted roof (8" span, 4" high) seems to be very stable. Will it stay
> this way with heat.
> I already have the 'rigidizer' so now all I have to do is apply it and dry
> it. But I really don't understand the reason for it. It is said that it
> reduces the insulation value slightly.
> I take it for granted I would be safer to go ahead and apply the rigidizer,
> just for drill, if nothing else.
> Any input appreciated. .. ..in advance, thanks.
>
>
>


Posted by Martin H. Eastburn on May 21, 2007, 10:13 pm
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Why not put in 3000 or so degree 'cement'. It isn't like normal cement
it doesn't hold water in formation. It drys and cures under heat that
boils off the water both in drying and then when heated up and cured.

It is or feels so like almost solid rock but goes very high and lasts.
It is hard and takes a flame without much ill. I use it as a top cover
and have the super hot gas flow through a hole in it.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot"s Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Chilla wrote:
> Hi theChas,
>
> I have found that Kaowool will literally evaporate when directly exposed
> to an oxyacetylene torch, however Kaowool treated with Kaowool Rigidizer
> wont even go black.
>
> I did an experiment with a piece of Kaowool I treated one half with
> Rigidizer and the other half without, and ran an oxyacetylene torch back
> and forth over the Kaowool. The untreated half disintegrated, the
> treated half was untouched.
>
> If the wool doesn't come into direct contact with an extremely hot flame
> I'm sure it will be okay.
>
> This is what I have found, others might have a different experience.
>
>
>
>
> Regards Charles
>
> theChas. wrote:
>> I'm just finishing my first propane forge made from a 5 gallon can.
>> I modified it slightly so it is no longer a cylinder, but is now a
>> vaulted
>> arch.
>> The floor consists of two -1" layers of kaolin with a 1.25" firebricks on
>> the top of this. 3.25 total inches. The arches are 2-1" kaolin layers.
>> The vaulted roof (8" span, 4" high) seems to be very stable. Will it
>> stay
>> this way with heat.
>> I already have the 'rigidizer' so now all I have to do is apply it and
>> dry
>> it. But I really don't understand the reason for it. It is said that it
>> reduces the insulation value slightly.
>> I take it for granted I would be safer to go ahead and apply the
>> rigidizer,
>> just for drill, if nothing else.
>> Any input appreciated. .. ..in advance, thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>

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Posted by Chilla on May 22, 2007, 12:01 am
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Maybe just a coat of the cement over the wool, although you'd still need
to dry it slowly to avoid cracking.

If he's go the kaowool and the rigidiser, that should be enough for a
forge, he shouldn't need to spend more money.


Regards Charles



Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
> Why not put in 3000 or so degree 'cement'. It isn't like normal cement
> it doesn't hold water in formation. It drys and cures under heat that
> boils off the water both in drying and then when heated up and cured.
>
> It is or feels so like almost solid rock but goes very high and lasts.
> It is hard and takes a flame without much ill. I use it as a top cover
> and have the super hot gas flow through a hole in it.
>
> Martin
>
> Martin H. Eastburn
> @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
> TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot"s Medal.
> NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
> IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
> http://lufkinced.com/


Posted by on May 22, 2007, 6:21 pm
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> I'm just finishing my first propane forge made from a 5 gallon can.
> I modified it slightly so it is no longer a cylinder, but is now a vaulted
> arch.
> The floor consists of two -1" layers of kaolin with a 1.25" firebricks on
> the top of this. 3.25 total inches. The arches are 2-1" kaolin layers.
> The vaulted roof (8" span, 4" high) seems to be very stable. Will it stay
> this way with heat.
> I already have the 'rigidizer' so now all I have to do is apply it and dry
> it. But I really don't understand the reason for it. It is said that it
> reduces the insulation value slightly.
> I take it for granted I would be safer to go ahead and apply the rigidizer,
> just for drill, if nothing else.
> Any input appreciated. .. ..in advance, thanks.
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
I've heard that ceramic wool fibers, especially after being heated,
can be bad for you. The rigidizer helps keep the fibers cemented down
so they don't get in your lungs. The main reason for using it is to
make your forge a little more resistant to breaking, especially if you
move it around at all.



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