Power shear question
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Power shear question Prometheus 05-16-2007
Posted by Prometheus on May 16, 2007, 5:41 am
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Hello all-

Now, I know a *real* blacksmith would never use one, but luckily, I
don't have too many pretentions in that regard.

Here's the question, and I suspect it's simple enough- I've got an
old electric Stanley Unishear, and the gear box is dry. So, I need to
put some oil in it, but don't have a manual for it.

Any thoughts on what I can fill this up with? My inclination would be
to use some regular 5w-30 motor oil, but there may be something I'm
not aware of that would be better- or there may be a problem with
using it. Never hurts to get a second opinion or two, and a half a
pint of just about any kind of oil ought to fit into my budget, so it
may as well be the correct stuff.

Thanks!

Posted by John Hines on May 16, 2007, 7:15 am
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On Wed, 16 May 2007 04:41:59 -0500, Prometheus

>Any thoughts on what I can fill this up with? My inclination would be
>to use some regular 5w-30 motor oil, but there may be something I'm
>not aware of that would be better- or there may be a problem with
>using it.

Traditionally "regular" oil was a straight 30w, I'd suggest that over
a 5w oil.

The multi-viscosity stuff is really only applicable to automobiles and
devices that are used in a wide range of temperatures, standing
machines are almost always use a straight weight oil.

5w oil is like sewing machine oil very thin,
30w is like automobile oil,
80w is like differential oil,
120w+ is like grease

Posted by Trevor Jones on May 16, 2007, 8:47 am
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Prometheus wrote:
> Hello all-
>
> Now, I know a *real* blacksmith would never use one, but luckily, I
> don't have too many pretentions in that regard.
>
> Here's the question, and I suspect it's simple enough- I've got an
> old electric Stanley Unishear, and the gear box is dry. So, I need to
> put some oil in it, but don't have a manual for it.
>
> Any thoughts on what I can fill this up with? My inclination would be
> to use some regular 5w-30 motor oil, but there may be something I'm
> not aware of that would be better- or there may be a problem with
> using it. Never hurts to get a second opinion or two, and a half a
> pint of just about any kind of oil ought to fit into my budget, so it
> may as well be the correct stuff.
>
> Thanks!

A "real" blacksmith would use whatever tools he had, because it's
work, not art, and a guy has to eat!

Grab a can or bottle of gear oil at the auto supply place of choice.
The hypoid gear oils (for differentials) usually contain some graphite
or moly to help reduce friction a bit. Something made for transmissions
(manual ones) or differentials should be better than the lighter engine
oils.

If there is any chance of it leaking or being vented into the shop,
use the transmission oils as the hypoid gear oils tend to smell awful.

Cheers
Trevor Jones


Posted by Chilla on May 16, 2007, 7:35 pm
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Trevor Jones wrote:
> Prometheus wrote:
>
>> Hello all-
>>
>> Now, I know a *real* blacksmith would never use one, but luckily, I
>> don't have too many pretentions in that regard.
>>
>> Here's the question, and I suspect it's simple enough- I've got an
>> old electric Stanley Unishear, and the gear box is dry. So, I need to
>> put some oil in it, but don't have a manual for it.
>> Any thoughts on what I can fill this up with? My inclination would be
>> to use some regular 5w-30 motor oil, but there may be something I'm
>> not aware of that would be better- or there may be a problem with
>> using it. Never hurts to get a second opinion or two, and a half a
>> pint of just about any kind of oil ought to fit into my budget, so it
>> may as well be the correct stuff.
>>
>> Thanks!
>
>
> A "real" blacksmith would use whatever tools he had, because it's work,
> not art, and a guy has to eat!
>
> Grab a can or bottle of gear oil at the auto supply place of choice.
> The hypoid gear oils (for differentials) usually contain some graphite
> or moly to help reduce friction a bit. Something made for transmissions
> (manual ones) or differentials should be better than the lighter engine
> oils.
>
> If there is any chance of it leaking or being vented into the shop, use
> the transmission oils as the hypoid gear oils tend to smell awful.
>
> Cheers
> Trevor Jones

A "real" blacksmith... there ain't no such animal anymore (imo).

Forge welding a sword from crappy metal (and making it good), on a small
block of iron, with a charcoal forge, now that's a blacksmith.

Reading up on historical needle making... definitely a hard life.

Me? I consider myself a cheat, I drill holes, and use propane ;-)



Regards Charles


Posted by Martin H. Eastburn on May 16, 2007, 9:44 pm
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Chill bud - there are blacksmiths. Full time ones.
And some are owners/ users/etc are part time types.

Blacksmiths don't have to be coal black in form and looks while
pounding steel with a home made hammer.

Many a rancher has a full time blacksmith on line or employed.
Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot"s Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Chilla wrote:
> Trevor Jones wrote:
>
>> Prometheus wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all-
>>>
>>> Now, I know a *real* blacksmith would never use one, but luckily, I
>>> don't have too many pretentions in that regard.
>>>
>>> Here's the question, and I suspect it's simple enough- I've got an
>>> old electric Stanley Unishear, and the gear box is dry. So, I need to
>>> put some oil in it, but don't have a manual for it.
>>> Any thoughts on what I can fill this up with? My inclination would be
>>> to use some regular 5w-30 motor oil, but there may be something I'm
>>> not aware of that would be better- or there may be a problem with
>>> using it. Never hurts to get a second opinion or two, and a half a
>>> pint of just about any kind of oil ought to fit into my budget, so it
>>> may as well be the correct stuff.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>
>>
>>
>> A "real" blacksmith would use whatever tools he had, because it's
>> work, not art, and a guy has to eat!
>>
>> Grab a can or bottle of gear oil at the auto supply place of choice.
>> The hypoid gear oils (for differentials) usually contain some graphite
>> or moly to help reduce friction a bit. Something made for
>> transmissions (manual ones) or differentials should be better than the
>> lighter engine oils.
>>
>> If there is any chance of it leaking or being vented into the shop,
>> use the transmission oils as the hypoid gear oils tend to smell awful.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Trevor Jones
>
>
> A "real" blacksmith... there ain't no such animal anymore (imo).
>
> Forge welding a sword from crappy metal (and making it good), on a small
> block of iron, with a charcoal forge, now that's a blacksmith.
>
> Reading up on historical needle making... definitely a hard life.
>
> Me? I consider myself a cheat, I drill holes, and use propane ;-)
>
>
>
> Regards Charles
>

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