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Posted by Jeanne Rhea on January 19, 2007, 10:22 am
Please log in for more thread options Thanks, Bob.
All of this information helped. I made the holes in the masks small so I
don't think that I have wire that would work well in the kiln and not
stretch too much with the heat so I will not try that idea.
I will try a few different things you suggested and see which works the
best. I am going to put one thin layer of glaze all over with a paint brush
and then two more layers on the top and back, but not on the areas that
touch the shelves or triangles. They are curved and just the two sides will
touch the shelf. I will also try the triangles with glaze and without glaze
on the back edges and see how it works. I have coated some kiln shelves
that are for tiles with many layers of kiln wash so I will also try to see
how they work.
One other question. I have some of the kiln paper that I purchased before
really knowing what I planned to do with the kiln. I am not certain what
brand or even what it is made of, but got it at a stained glass shop. I
have checked online and most kiln paper can be heated to 1600F, but I will
be heating to a higher temperature. If I used it, would it just burn up?
Fumes? Would the fibers be released to float all around and maybe land on my
pieces? I'll resist my urge to test this until I hear what you think.
Thank you and I will let you know how well this turns out!
Jeanne
Web site http://www.heartofclay.com/
Art for the Heart Blog http://artfortheheart.blogspot.com/
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> wrote:
>
>>I am new to this forum and to earth clay and kilns. I have made some
>>small
>>masks about 1 1/2" x 1 3/4" and have bisqued fired them. They turned out
>>really good with no cracks, etc. I am wanting to glaze them on both
>>sides.
>>They have two tubes on the back sides so a cord can be used for hanging
>>them
>>or making a necklace. I want an all over glaze on front and back. I know
>>I
>>cannot dip them as the glaze could fill the holes.
>
> You can always plug the holes temporarily (with wet clay, etc) while
> you dip, then remove the plugs after the glaze is dry. Or just dip
> away and let the glaze fill the holes, then clean it out later with a
> pipe-cleaner or wire.
>
>>My question is---What is the best way to go about getting a glaze on the
>>front and back without the glaze sticking to the triangles in the final
>>firing? I have some small triangles that are about 1/4" high that I
>>purchased from Amaco. Do I coat the triangles in kiln wash? Will this
>>help? Am I expecting to be able to do something that might not be
>>possible?
>>I will need to fire to 1915F. These little triangles are rated for up to
>>cone 10.
>
> I haven't used the triangles you mention, so I can't address those
> specifically. But here are some general ideas: First, if the backs
> are not really intended to be conspicuous and you only want to
> glaze them to seal them, you can put a much lighter coating of
> glaze on the back than the decorative glaze on the front. This
> will most likely mean everything is brushed on at first, but if
> you go into production there are other approaches possible,
> such as a light dip, masking the back, and a second dip for
> the front.
>
> Having less glaze on the back will mean much less dripping
> or running onto the supports during firing. After a few trials, you
> should be able to get good sealing coverage with no running at all.
>
> I suspect the kiln wash idea will be helpful with the triangles,
> but whatever you use you may have to accept a blemish where
> it touches, or else be prepared to do a little touch-up grinding.
> You can probably do that with a hand-held stone, no power
> tools needed.
>
> But if you have glaze-free hanging holes on these masks
> already, the simplest approach might be to fire them while
> hanging on high-temperature wire, as is done with beads.
> You can make your own support for the wires, or string it
> between kiln posts or something. Keep in mind that the
> wire will lose stiffness when it is hot, so keep the unsupported
> length as short as feasible until you get a feel for this.
> You don't want the weight of the masks to sag the wire
> such that the masks touch the bottom or fall off.
>
> For heavy-ish things (these sound heavier than typical
> beads) I have had good luck with bundles of wire for
> added stiffness. I usually coat the wire with kiln wash,
> which helps if some glaze sneaks around the edges and
> onto the wire. I find the kiln wash goes on easier if the
> wires are warm, so I put them in the kitchen oven first.
>
> Hope this helps!
>
>
>
>
> Bob Masta
> dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom
>
> D A Q A R T A
> Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
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