Question on glazing

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Question on glazing Jeanne Rhea 01-18-2007
Posted by Jeanne Rhea on January 18, 2007, 8:12 pm
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I am new to this forum and to earth clay and kilns. I have made some small
masks about 1 1/2" x 1 3/4" and have bisqued fired them. They turned out
really good with no cracks, etc. I am wanting to glaze them on both sides.
They have two tubes on the back sides so a cord can be used for hanging them
or making a necklace. I want an all over glaze on front and back. I know I
cannot dip them as the glaze could fill the holes.

My question is---What is the best way to go about getting a glaze on the
front and back without the glaze sticking to the triangles in the final
firing? I have some small triangles that are about 1/4" high that I
purchased from Amaco. Do I coat the triangles in kiln wash? Will this
help? Am I expecting to be able to do something that might not be possible?
I will need to fire to 1915F. These little triangles are rated for up to
cone 10.

I appreciate any help that you can offer. If you need a photo to visualize
what I am asking, just let me know. Sorry if this post shows up twice. I
do not know if it went the first time I tried.
Thanks!
Jeanne Rhea
Web site http://www.heartofclay.com/
Art for the Heart Blog http://artfortheheart.blogspot.com/
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Posted by Bob Masta on January 19, 2007, 10:22 pm
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wrote:

<snip>

>My question is---What is the best way to go about getting a glaze on the
>front and back without the glaze sticking to the triangles in the final
>firing? I have some small triangles that are about 1/4" high that I
>purchased from Amaco. Do I coat the triangles in kiln wash? Will this
>help? Am I expecting to be able to do something that might not be possible?
>I will need to fire to 1915F. These little triangles are rated for up to
>cone 10.

An addendum to my other response: Ceramic suppliers sell
"stilts" that are typically Y-shaped clay with wire points sticking
up for you to set your piece on. Since the wire is very thin, it
doesn't mar the glazed surface as much as a broader point.

If you have some high-temp wire, you can make your own
custom stilts to fit your piece, just by sticking stubs of wire
into a clay pat.

There's an even sneakier way to make quickie stilts:
Get a small piece of steel sheet and bend up the corners
to become the points. This is definitely a limited-use
approach, since the steel will oxidize in the firing. But
that helps release the piece, because the oxide scale that
forms can be easily pulled away from the remaining steel.
The steel gets thinner with every firing, so don't start with
anything *too* thin or your piece might collapse.

As a bonus, you'll be left with some dandy iron oxide that
you can crush a bit and use for artsy effects by working it
into the surface of a clay body.

Best regards,


Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
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