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Posted by on March 2, 2008, 8:30 pm
Please log in for more thread options I have an answer! One way for a beginner potter to understand the process:
including loading a kiln, types of clays, how to make glazes and such:
now don't laugh....There is a section of this book that does a wonderful job
of explaining it all: you may have to order it:
"Reader's Digest CRAFTS AND HOBBIES --a step by step guide to creative
skills"
ISBN 0-89577-063-6 copyright, 1979
I think someone I referred this book to, got a new copy....however, by now,
I bet you would have to pick up a copy at a book dealer.
(as a sidenote, there are also glass projects, quilting, etc in the book
also. I still use it at times to help students see how lids are made, types
of coilbuilding projects, etc.)
I hope this helps.
Ren
> Although I do not agree with what your teacher did (not allowing students
> take part in all aspects of the pottery experience) I can understand their
> wanting to protect other students work. Still, I would be very surprised
> if they would object to you observing them load and use the kiln. For a
> bisque firing you can stack pots and have them touching sides. You have
> to be careful to not put heavy pieces on top of light pieces. You can
> stack rim to rim and foot to foot. Think in terms of not putting stress
> on fragile walls. Once upon a time I could fill an entire bisque kiln
> without using any shelves. Of course it was a small kiln - probably 4
> cubic feet. Your kiln is too large and you are too inexperienced to load
> without shelves. Keep in mind that clay is going to expand and shrink
> during firing. Pots within pots have to have enough room to account for
> this.
>
> http://www.bluediamondkiln.com/model-123-d.html
>
> DO NOT just plug the kiln in without knowing what you are doing. You will
> probably need an electrician to install the proper plug with the wiring
> for the voltage and amperage you need. You need to be sure that you are
> the requred distance from any flamable material. These kilns get HOT.
> Your kiln appears to be a manual with a cone sitter in it. I can give you
> a sample of what you would do for a bisque fire and you can tell me what
> does and does not make sense. A guess is that after you 'candle' your
> kiln it will take about 12 hours to fire.
>
> Make sure that you have venting one way or another - if you don't have a
> kiln vent have open windows and a fan. The fumes coming off pottery can
> be quite nasty.
>
> Load your kiln. Make sure that you have the 04 or 06 cone properly in
> place in the kiln sitter and that you have in position where you can see
> them through the peep hole at least 3 cones for monitoring the kiln- one
> which is 1 below the temperature you are firing to, one at the target
> temperature and one above the temperature - for example 07, 06, 05. More
> on this later.
>
> Turn the bottom control onto low. Have the peep holes out and the lid
> held open with a brick. Let it run overnight (this is called candling and
> is a precaution to make sure your pieces are dry).
>
> In the morning shut the lid and turn the middle control onto low. Run for
> an hour then turn the top controller on low.
>
> Put the peep hole plugs in. Run for an hour then turn the bottom
> controller onto medium. Proceed in this fashion (one controller upped one
> level for every level) until all the controllers are on high.
>
> If life were perfect, when your kiln reached the heat work you wanted
> (what the cone responds to rather than temperature) then the kiln sitter
> would fall and your kiln would shut off. Life is seldom perfect. You
> have to monitor your kiln using cones to show what the heat work is in the
> kiln. You use 3 cones typically or at least until you are comfortable with
> your firing. The three cones are a guide cone, the target cone and the
> guard cone. The guide cone is the one that is one number below the
> target cone and the guard cone is one number above the target. Let us say
> that you are firing to cone 06. Your guide would be 07, your target cone
> would be 06 and your guard would be 05. Notice that guide number is
> higher than the target cone which is higher than the guard. Cones that
> are preceeded with a zero go from high to low and vs for those without a
> zero - so rank order would be 022, 021, 020....., 07, 06, 04....01, 1, 2,
> 3, 4, 5, 6, 7... 02 is for a lower temperature than 01 but cone 2 is
> higher than cone 1.
>
> You need to monitor your firing to be sure that it does not over fire or
> under fire. If the target cone has dropped and your kiln sitter has not
> dropped you will have carefully watch and if the guard cone begins to fall
> then turn the kiln off manually. If your kiln sitter drops too early you
> can carefully set it again. It will now be without the cone in the kiln
> sitter to make it turn off so you will have monitor your cones and
> manually shut off the kiln when the target cone drops. To look at your
> cones you need to be wearing glasses to protect your eyes. I'm not sure
> where to tell you to get these. Usually you get them when you buy a kiln.
> I'm surprised the person you bought the kiln from did not have posts,
> glasses and gloves.
>
> The cones that you monitor the firing with and you do not have self
> supporting one will have to be put in a kiln holder which you probably
> don't have or you can easily make a kiln pad. For this you roll out a log
> of clay about 3" long and 5/8" Diameter, carefullly place the cones in the
> pad and let the clay dry. The cones must go in the right order and
> direction.
> http://www.ortonceramic.com/resources/reference/correct_use.shtml
> read mounting cones.
>
> Again all of this is easy to demonstrate and difficult to talk you
> through. If you can become a member of a pottery studio, which will if
> nothing else allow you to observe, it would be far better.
>
> Donna
>
>
>
>> Hello Lifesavers,
>>
>> To answer some of your questions...I live in Spring, TX, northern
>> suburb of Houston. There are a lot of arts & crafts types around here,
>> but so far I have not found much help for my kiln questions. People
>> who have experience around here seem to guard it like Fort Knox. My
>> teacher at the junior college held a masters in studio arts from Cal
>> Berkeley and did/does all kiln loading as he claims to have never
>> broken pieces due to his methods??? So, I got some good education as
>> to making stuff, but little or no practical experience as to loading
>> and firing. I have bought books and taken some out from the library,
>> but kiln speak is like Greek to me. I have very little
>> understanding...
>>
>>
>>
>> The kiln I bought is a Blue Diamond model 123D. It stands about chest
>> high and is about arms width -- pretty big. I was told that it had
>> never been used but sustained minor damage in storage (a couple of
>> missing/broken bricks). I have yet to try and turn it on though I
>> spent a bundle having special wiring put in to accommodate it. I
>> think it is manual. I also think it needs what I've read is kiln
>> furniture??? One suggestion from another neighbor is that I just plug
>> it in and see what happens. Since it goes to 2300 degrees that is
>> intimidating; I don't want to set fire to the house if I screw up.
>>
>>
>>
>> The story is that this kiln was bought for my neighbor's mom (who won
>> awards for her ceramics), but who was diagnosed with Alzheimer's and
>> cannot be safely around any type of electrical oven-type appliances.
>> Though never used I can see a couple of missing bricks. She gave me
>> some cones -- different sizes, and I don't even know which size goes
>> with what.
>>
>>
>>
>> I guess I am kiln challenged mentally and though new to ceramics, I'm
>> a mom with grown children and not in physical shape to do more than my
>> own work. I can't see me helping load pottery at the college...just
>> too old for that even if they would let me (very proprietary around
>> here). I've even thought of selling the works but would first like to
>> give this a real try, especially due to the cost of the wiring.
>>
>>
>>
>> I did try some time back to contact Blue Diamond and was not
>> successful, maybe things have improved in Metairie since then, but
>> still don't know if I will understand a manual. So, there are lots of
>> knobs and all I think I understand so far is slowly raise the
>> temperature for eight hours to bisque??? But what temperature and how
>> slowly?
>>
>>
>>
>> Also there are several octagonal looking shelf things...I guess this
>> is kiln furniture, but nothing to hold them up. Sorry to be so dumb,
>> but I really didn't expect this to be such a mystery. Thanks for the
>> feedback, though, it feels great to actually have people who seem
>> willing to share what they know. Any and all advice is most welcome!
>>
>
>
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