Repost about 'rigidizer'
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Repost about 'rigidizer' theChas. 05-21-2007
Posted by theChas. on May 21, 2007, 2:40 pm
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. . . sorry the first post didn't appear.
I'm just finishing my first propane forge made from a 5 gallon can.
I modified it slightly so it is no longer a cylinder, but is now a vaulted
arch.
The floor consists of two -1" layers of kaolin with a 1.25" firebricks on
the top of this. 3.25 total inches. The arches are 2-1" kaolin layers.
The vaulted roof chamber (8" span, 4" high) seems to be very stable. Will
it stay
this way with heat.
I already have the 'rigidizer' so now all I have to do is apply it and dry
it. But I really don't understand the reason for it. It is said that it
reduces the insulation value slightly.
I take it for granted I would be safer to go ahead and apply the rigidizer,
just for drill, if nothing else.
Any input appreciated. .. ..in advance, thanks.



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Posted by Chilla on May 21, 2007, 7:39 pm
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I replied to it :-(

<snip>
Hi theChas,

I have found that Kaowool will literally evaporate when directly exposed
to an oxyacetylene torch, however Kaowool treated with Kaowool Rigidizer
wont even go black.

I did an experiment with a piece of Kaowool I treated one half with
Rigidizer and the other half without, and ran an oxyacetylene torch back
and forth over the Kaowool. The untreated half disintegrated, the
treated half was untouched.

If the wool doesn't come into direct contact with an extremely hot flame
I'm sure it will be okay.

This is what I have found, others might have a different experience.

<snip>

theChas. wrote:
> . . . sorry the first post didn't appear.
> I'm just finishing my first propane forge made from a 5 gallon can.
> I modified it slightly so it is no longer a cylinder, but is now a vaulted
> arch.
> The floor consists of two -1" layers of kaolin with a 1.25" firebricks on
> the top of this. 3.25 total inches. The arches are 2-1" kaolin layers.
> The vaulted roof chamber (8" span, 4" high) seems to be very stable. Will
> it stay
> this way with heat.
> I already have the 'rigidizer' so now all I have to do is apply it and dry
> it. But I really don't understand the reason for it. It is said that it
> reduces the insulation value slightly.
> I take it for granted I would be safer to go ahead and apply the rigidizer,
> just for drill, if nothing else.
> Any input appreciated. .. ..in advance, thanks.
>
>
>


Posted by Kyle J. on May 21, 2007, 9:59 pm
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>I replied to it :-(
> <snip>
> Hi theChas,
> I have found that Kaowool will literally evaporate when directly exposed
> to an oxyacetylene torch, however Kaowool treated with Kaowool Rigidizer
> wont even go black.
> I did an experiment with a piece of Kaowool I treated one half with
> Rigidizer and the other half without, and ran an oxyacetylene torch back
> and forth over the Kaowool. The untreated half disintegrated, the treated
> half was untouched.
> If the wool doesn't come into direct contact with an extremely hot flame
> I'm sure it will be okay.
> This is what I have found, others might have a different experience.
> <snip>

I've had my torch in direct contact with the wool stuff that I've been using
(aftermarket stuff) and never seen it vaporize but I do know if you get it
hot enough it will get brittle and then it floats away in bits and pieces.
Even if it's not in direct contact, once you start hitting it's temperture
limit it gets brittle and begins to crumble. The stabilizer will prevent
that. 1. It helps to keep your liner intact and 2. it keeps you from
breathing the dust flaking off of it. This second point is probably the
most important. I run on the assumption that breathing it is a very bad
thing. I use a coat of satanite as a stabilizer. Cheap and lasts a while.
When it starts getting beat up you can slap another coat on it. ITC-100
(I think) will increase the heat reflective properties and make it even
better. I do two one inch layers of wool and the Satanite and never really
needed anything else. I just built a new forge with a larger interior and
my one 3/4" torch is still enough to get close to 2000F. Interior is 12 x
24 inch cylider minus the wool. Not sure of the math here. I'm planning to
put a layer of Mizzou on the bottom to protect it from flux.

GA



Posted by Chilla on May 22, 2007, 12:03 am
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Kyle J. wrote:

> I'm planning to put a layer of Mizzou on the bottom to protect it from flux.
>
> GA

Just use a hard fire brick, and replace it when it gets eaten, it's a
cheaper solution.


Regards Charles


Posted by on May 22, 2007, 6:36 pm
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> Kyle J. wrote:
> > I'm planning to put a layer of Mizzou on the bottom to protect it from flux.
>
> > GA
>
> Just use a hard fire brick, and replace it when it gets eaten, it's a
> cheaper solution.
>
> Regards Charles
Just to add a little to this, I've used soft and hard firebrick, and
castable refractory. The hard firebrick takes a long time to get up to
heat... In my old forge it would get good and hot in about 15--30
minutes with soft brick, and take 60+ minutes with hard. The problem
with soft brick is that flux eats it away pretty fast, so you can
expect to replace them fairly often. The hard brick lasts a long time,
but takes forever to get really hot. The best solution I've found so
far is to use soft brick and put down a layer of "hard" castable
refractory cement on top, maybe 3/4" thick. I think if I was really
motivated I'd cut some hard brick to 1/2" thick on a tile saw and use
those as "pavers".



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