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Posted by John Fly on October 12, 2006, 10:18 pm
Please log in for more thread options I'll have to check that out, but I believe it was shear. I might have
let the piece get too cold on my first heat.. so that could have
started a crack, I know that it piece was good the second heat(when it
opened up) because my first 3-4 hammer blows felt very good and the
metal moved quite nice. Its just when I hit a paticular spot it just
kind of "opened up on me".. oh well..
As for keeping the metal clean.. I think that was my last real visit to
a coal forge.. i'm planning on working up a propane forge so no more
time lost tending the coals and pulling out metal covered in
crud(TM)...
I suspected that at working temp the metal was dead soft but I'm no
metallurgist and turn to the community to make sure I'm not missing
anything.
---
On a personal note: Thank you for the information I have really
enjoyed the information I find here. I'm glad there are still people
in this world willing to share information with out charging for it :)
Chilla wrote:
> Hi John,
>
> Sounds like the rasp is getting too hot.
>
> When the metal cracks does the metal look granular or is it a shear?
>
> If it's granular then it's too hot, if it's a shear then you're working
> the metal cold.
>
> You're very adventurous, welding high carbon with high carbon, I tip my
> hat to you for "balls".
>
>
>
> Regards Charles
> P.S. Paul's advise is very good btw
>
>
>
>
>
> John Fly wrote:
>
> > I recently obtained some old rasps and tried to forge weld one to an
> > old leaf spring.
> >
> > I didn't fully anneal the rasp and after ~20 blows I had a major break
> > happen.
> >
> >
> > Besides cracking/breaking of metal thats too hard during forging, would
> > having the metal at dead soft actually -help- get a good forge weld?
> >
> > I know its not nessassary but.... anything to help get a cleaner and
> > quicker weld is always a good thing.
> >
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