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Subject Author Date
Tapping Michael 11-09-2007
Posted by Michael on November 9, 2007, 9:06 am
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Back when glass was new I did a few stained glass windows. I used one
of those generic green glass cutters with the ball on the end to tap
the glass from behind and deepen the crack and break the glass. I
remember doing that religiously. Now many moons later when I take up
the craft again, I notice that doesn't appear to be a standard glass-
breaking technique anymore. Is that correct? Any tapping going on
out there?

Michael


Posted by Javahut on November 9, 2007, 9:27 am
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> Back when glass was new I did a few stained glass windows. I used one
> of those generic green glass cutters with the ball on the end to tap
> the glass from behind and deepen the crack and break the glass. I
> remember doing that religiously. Now many moons later when I take up
> the craft again, I notice that doesn't appear to be a standard glass-
> breaking technique anymore. Is that correct? Any tapping going on
> out there?
>
> Michael
>

It still has it's uses, just not as much control, so there is more scrap,
generally speaking. Like anything else, the more you do it, the better you
get. For someone that uses that technique exclusively, they are probably
very good at it. I use it when I need to, usually on 1/4" plate, use it
alot then for beveled pieces.



Posted by Lauri Levanto on November 9, 2007, 9:30 am
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Michael wrote:
> Back when glass was new
5000 years ago?
> I did a few stained glass windows. I used one
> of those generic green glass cutters with the ball on the end to tap
> the glass from behind and deepen the crack and break the glass. I
> remember doing that religiously. Now many moons later when I take up
> the craft again, I notice that doesn't appear to be a standard glass-
> breaking technique anymore. Is that correct? Any tapping going on
> out there?
>
> Michael
>
I have notices that tiffany teachers teach tapping.
Kilnforming teachers avert from it.

If you tap *exactly* opposite the score, it opens well.
If you hit a bit on one side, it runs between the scolre and tapping
point, leaving sharb slanted edge.

Straight scores run against the table end or putting the ball end of
your cutter under glass and pressing with ahnds on both sides.


For difficult curves try first: lay the glass score down on some soft; a
rubbermat, old towel. Press with your thumb following the score from
opposite side.
(Easy with cathedral, guesswork with opals). That gives a nice
controlled run.
If it does not help, use running pliers or Mortom M-80.

-lauri

Posted by glassman on November 9, 2007, 6:37 pm
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> Back when glass was new I did a few stained glass windows. I used one
> of those generic green glass cutters with the ball on the end to tap
> the glass from behind and deepen the crack and break the glass. I
> remember doing that religiously. Now many moons later when I take up
> the craft again, I notice that doesn't appear to be a standard glass-
> breaking technique anymore. Is that correct? Any tapping going on
> out there?
>
> Michael
>


Yes we tap all day.... sounds like an Italian wedding in my shop. We
don't tap the straight lines, or the slight curves, or the small pieces.
Big deep curves are meant for tapping. We can then break them out in one
step without multiple cuts and breaks. In a production shop, speed and ease
are the goals. If you're at home you can cut and cut and grind all day if
you want to achieve perfection.


--
JK Sinrod
www.SinrodStudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com



Posted by Michael on November 11, 2007, 6:38 am
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Thanks for the insight on tapping. I avoided it on several earlier
pieces but what I'm working on now has a lot of deep incuts and I was
starting to get a lot of bad breaks. My rule is if I ruin two pieces
in a row, I cut as close as I can on the third and grind the rest
out. Tapping helps. I've also been using a custom-designed grozer
that Javahut made for me that does a great job on the inside curves.

Michael



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