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Posted by Trevor Jones on December 6, 2006, 8:17 pm
Please log in for more thread options Chilla wrote:
> Thank you Spaco for sharing that.
>
> I do a prototyping approach myself based on past experiments. Failures
> and successes all help when designing a gas forge.
>
> If you keep the fire box (or heating chamber) small compared to the
> burner you will definitely achieve high temperatures.
>
> How high? High enough to melt bronze in 5 minutes and that's naturally
> aspirated. If you add an air source the temperature goes up with the
> added cost of extra oxidisation, but if you want to melt iron then you
> need these temperatures. Also at the really high temperatures the
> refractories start to degrade, and you have to replace them sooner.
>
> Being able to melt bronze is more than enough heat for the average
> blacksmith, so forced air isn't really necessary for a hobby
> application. Also if forced air is left out of the equation then you
> can be a little more mobile.
>
> "Better than what?" was an excellent question. This can only be based
> on experience. Better than the one I made first, better than the one I
> bought for a bucket load of cash. Better than something dreamed up
> isn't really quantifiable.
>
> If you plan to make a forge, and have no experience, then you have to
> listen to those that have made them. Don't be afraid to ask "stupid"
> questions.
>
>
>
> Regards Charles
>
>
>
>
> spaco wrote:
>
>> Questions about gas forges come up often here and in other places.
>> Here is an unfinished article I wrote on the subject:
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> How to make a Gas Forge Better
>
>
The forge/ metal melting furnace that I built got blessed with a
forced air burner made of 2" plumbing parts.
Nothing against the naturally aspirated burners, as I have friends
melting and pouring iron with them, but I had the blower...
Forced air burners are about the most tolerant designs to use if
things are not just right. More or less fuel, more or less air, dead
easy to tune. Want lots of heat add lots of fuel and adjust as required.
Having the power go out has never been a problem. :-)
I'll second the notion that a small firebox gets hotter faster. I made
mine too large. Good refractory is a help too, stay away from hard
firebrick except maybe some half splits or kiln shelves for lining the
bottom of the firebox.
Insulating castable refractory works good, ceramic wool or foam,
better, and the reflective coatings like ITC 100 add that much more to
the efficiency.
Cheers
Trevor Jones
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