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Posted by Prometheus on April 28, 2007, 5:04 am
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Emptied out the shed today to make it into a dedicated blacksmithing
shop. I was in the garage, which is actually bigger- but it is
underground, hard to vent properly without opening the big door, and
also has a low ceiling.
The shed will work out nicely though- it's on a concrete pad, framed
like a little house, and has power. And after tonight, it now has a
pair of exhaust fans in the gable ends and a switched outlet for my
forge blower so I don't have to reach around to plug it in. It's also
going to be a lot easier to put a 100# tank outside- drilling through
T11 siding and chipboard is a much nicer task than trying to bore a
hole through a foot and a half of fieldstone!
But here's the problem- I work nights, so that's when I'm most awake
and itching to do things. In the garage, the stone walls and earth
surrounding it blocked a lot of sound. The shed is not quite as well
appointed in that regard.
So, I figure I'm going to have to insulate it for sound reduction,
which is no big deal- but I'm going to want to cover the insulation
with something, and I'm wondering if any of you guys have done this.
I'm leaning towards sheetrock as the obvious choice, because it's
cheap and has some fire-retardant properties. But before I rush out
and sheetrock the inside of a blacksmithing shop, I figured I'd ask if
anyone has any better suggestions I may have overlooked. I'm not too
concerned about the aestetics of the interior, I just don't want
exposed insulation. There are all sorts of things to consider, from
carsiding to panelling to plastic sheets- and I'm open to any of them,
really. Any pros and cons of whatever you guys might be using to
cover your walls are appreciated. So far, the neighbors haven't made
any complaints about my various noisy nocturnal hobbies, and I'm
aiming to keep it that way!
Right now I'm just running a propane forge, but with the move out to
the higher location, it's now become realistic to put in a charcoal
forge as well (I would have had to put a rediculous chimney on the
garage to make it work properly), so that's a consideration when it
comes to covering the walls. I don't care if they get dirty, I just
don't want my shed burning down! (I *do* keep a big fire extinguisher
next to the door, but I hope to never have to use it)
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Posted by Ecnerwal on April 29, 2007, 8:08 pm
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> I'm leaning towards sheetrock as the obvious choice, because it's
> cheap and has some fire-retardant properties. But before I rush out
> and sheetrock the inside of a blacksmithing shop, I figured I'd ask if
> anyone has any better suggestions I may have overlooked.
Especially for the bottom 3 feet (it does cost more than sheetrock, so
you might not care to do the whole interior with it) consider either
"hardibacker" or "Durock" - the 3x5 sheets of cementboard, or in the
case of hardibacker, similar (and easier to cut), material sold for tile
floor underlayment. Harder to punch a hole in, more fire-resistant (no
paper face). In drywall, do choose the Type X (firecode) for obvious
reasons.
In the "I don't know where you find it conveniently" category, a surface
for better sound adsorption would be finely perforated steel sheet.
Morton Buildings was pushing that when I was shopping around for
buildings some years ago. The holes would have to be smaller than a
spark. Theory being that the sound goes through and gets soaked up by
the insulation.
Whatever you use, run a full bead of cement/tile grout/drywall compound
around the floor/wall join, and the wall/wall joins - sparks getting
into crannies are bad news when the building frame is wood. Eliminate
crannies. Cast a critical eye at windows, window frames, door frame,
sill as if you were a spark and wanted to find a nice place to hide...
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
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Posted by Neon John on April 29, 2007, 11:22 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 00:08:09 GMT, Ecnerwal
>
>> I'm leaning towards sheetrock as the obvious choice, because it's
>> cheap and has some fire-retardant properties. But before I rush out
>> and sheetrock the inside of a blacksmithing shop, I figured I'd ask if
>> anyone has any better suggestions I may have overlooked.
>
>Especially for the bottom 3 feet (it does cost more than sheetrock, so
>you might not care to do the whole interior with it) consider either
>"hardibacker" or "Durock" - the 3x5 sheets of cementboard, or in the
>case of hardibacker, similar (and easier to cut), material sold for tile
>floor underlayment. Harder to punch a hole in, more fire-resistant (no
>paper face). In drywall, do choose the Type X (firecode) for obvious
>reasons.
Drywall will be more than sufficient. I use drywall sheets on my
glass bending and blowing benches. All great blobs of red hot glass
do is char the paper a little. No flame at all. The paper has some
sort of flame retardent in it that will not let it flame. I
occasionally do some welding/cutting on one of the benches with no
detrimental effect. This is just plain old drywall laid on top of a
plywood deck and not the green fire rated stuff.
I used Hardieboard (the very smooth kind that Lowe's sells) one bench
but it was too thermally conductive and would shock the glass. It's
gone.
My main glassworking bench is >10 years old and is still in fine form.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
All great things are simple and many can be expressed in single words:
Freedom, Justice, Honor, Duty, Mercy, Hope. -Churchill
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Posted by Prometheus on May 2, 2007, 6:46 am
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>On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 00:08:09 GMT, Ecnerwal
>
>>
>>> I'm leaning towards sheetrock as the obvious choice, because it's
>>> cheap and has some fire-retardant properties. But before I rush out
>>> and sheetrock the inside of a blacksmithing shop, I figured I'd ask if
>>> anyone has any better suggestions I may have overlooked.
>>
>>Especially for the bottom 3 feet (it does cost more than sheetrock, so
>>you might not care to do the whole interior with it) consider either
>>"hardibacker" or "Durock" - the 3x5 sheets of cementboard, or in the
>>case of hardibacker, similar (and easier to cut), material sold for tile
>>floor underlayment. Harder to punch a hole in, more fire-resistant (no
>>paper face). In drywall, do choose the Type X (firecode) for obvious
>>reasons.
>
>Drywall will be more than sufficient. I use drywall sheets on my
>glass bending and blowing benches. All great blobs of red hot glass
>do is char the paper a little. No flame at all. The paper has some
>sort of flame retardent in it that will not let it flame. I
>occasionally do some welding/cutting on one of the benches with no
>detrimental effect. This is just plain old drywall laid on top of a
>plywood deck and not the green fire rated stuff.
>
>I used Hardieboard (the very smooth kind that Lowe's sells) one bench
>but it was too thermally conductive and would shock the glass. It's
>gone.
>
>My main glassworking bench is >10 years old and is still in fine form.
Am I to take it that you guys don't paint your shops? I'm not too
concerned about the paper starting on fire, as it will be covered with
whatever color paint I've got down in the basement. I guess my main
concern was the large amounts of water vapor that the propane forge
generates turning the drywall into a big sponge, even with the vent
fans. I suppose to be on the safe side, I'll just get the green-edged
bathroom stuff and tape it with durabond.
Nothing worse than drywall that has gotten wet- it's really soft, and
puffs up like a marshmellow.
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Posted by Prometheus on May 2, 2007, 6:37 am
Please log in for more thread options On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 00:08:09 GMT, Ecnerwal
>Especially for the bottom 3 feet (it does cost more than sheetrock, so
>you might not care to do the whole interior with it) consider either
>"hardibacker" or "Durock" - the 3x5 sheets of cementboard, or in the
>case of hardibacker, similar (and easier to cut), material sold for tile
>floor underlayment. Harder to punch a hole in, more fire-resistant (no
>paper face). In drywall, do choose the Type X (firecode) for obvious
>reasons.
Ah, yes- hardibacker. I hadn't thought of that, but that wouldn't be
a bad choice. I'll steer clear of cement board, though- I have a long
standing dislike for the stuff from past tile jobs.
>In the "I don't know where you find it conveniently" category, a surface
>for better sound adsorption would be finely perforated steel sheet.
>Morton Buildings was pushing that when I was shopping around for
>buildings some years ago. The holes would have to be smaller than a
>spark. Theory being that the sound goes through and gets soaked up by
>the insulation.
Oddly enough, I might be able to get my hands on that very
conveniently- though whether or not I can *afford* it is another
question altogether! Any idea what the diameter of a hole "smaller
than a spark" might be? We get some perforated steel in at work on a
semi-regular basis for a customer that has us cut speaker screens for
them. The holes are about the size of a mechanical pencil lead. If
it won't require a second morgage to buy it, I might try that out and
see how it works.
>Whatever you use, run a full bead of cement/tile grout/drywall compound
>around the floor/wall join, and the wall/wall joins - sparks getting
>into crannies are bad news when the building frame is wood. Eliminate
>crannies. Cast a critical eye at windows, window frames, door frame,
>sill as if you were a spark and wanted to find a nice place to hide...
Another good one I hadn't thought of- thanks for the advice! I've
done plenty of construction in the past, but nothing where there was
going to be open flame and hot metal moving around on a regular basis,
so I hadn't considered some of these things.
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