Worden and Odyssey Lamps

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Subject Author Date
Worden and Odyssey Lamps Michael 08-02-2007
Posted by Michael on September 4, 2007, 9:13 pm
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Thanks to everyone who has posted on the subject. I've been polishing
my glasscutting skills. They were pretty darned rusty. I've got a
Worden Tulip mold coming. I was careful (I hope) to not get one with
too big of pieces like javahut suggested. I could just wait until it
gets here and read the directions first, but I do have question. A
book I was recently looking at showed the only thing supporting the
lamp as a metal cap soldered onto the top. Is that really enough to
support a lamp? I notice that the Odyssey lamps have got a cap, a
ring, and something else supporting the lamp.

The people I ordered the mold from recommended that I get the 4" cap
for the top and support it from the bottom with a slightly larger cap,
and somehow squish them together. Does this sound valid?

Thank you, Michael


Posted by Javahut on September 4, 2007, 9:40 pm
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> Thanks to everyone who has posted on the subject. I've been polishing
> my glasscutting skills. They were pretty darned rusty. I've got a
> Worden Tulip mold coming. I was careful (I hope) to not get one with
> too big of pieces like javahut suggested. I could just wait until it
> gets here and read the directions first, but I do have question. A
> book I was recently looking at showed the only thing supporting the
> lamp as a metal cap soldered onto the top. Is that really enough to
> support a lamp? I notice that the Odyssey lamps have got a cap, a
> ring, and something else supporting the lamp.
>
> The people I ordered the mold from recommended that I get the 4" cap
> for the top and support it from the bottom with a slightly larger cap,
> and somehow squish them together. Does this sound valid?


Sure it will work, but keep in mind the forces on your lamp, that method
will work IF you do some things similar to what they did back in the good
ole days, that are brought forward with methods similar to what Odyssey is
doing.

When you build your shade, at the aperture ring, or top opening, solder in a
heavy copper or brass ring. of some kind. Years ago we used number 10
copper wire, bent around a propane tank, or something similar. Use 1/8 in
welding rod or brass rod from the hardware store, bend it around something
slightly larger in diameter, and squeeze it into size just before installing
it, and solder it in place.

I want to emphasize this, but not be mistaken for yelling, ONLY TACK IT IN
3 PLACES equidistant around the circumference of the ring until the shade is
off the mold. attach the bottom rim to the shade THEN level the shade by
the aperture ring. If you run into trouble when you get to that point, post
but DO NOT fill that gap between ring and glass before you post that you are
confused. The solution is very simple, but if you fill the solder area in
first, it is much more work.

Once that ring is in place, if you want to use a "wheel" as does odyssey ,
or use another cap under with one over it, you can do so easily without fear
that the upward pull of the bottom cap, and the downward sucking of the
earth,(gravity) along with the weight of those 3 lbs of solder pulling
downward, won't pull the bottom cap right up thru your fine tight lines on
the lamp shade.

Is that detail enough? Feel like somebody asked what time it was and I told
them how to build a watch, sorry about that, I must be "jonesing" from no
activity on the board in so long!! not even a good catfight.



Posted by Moonraker on September 4, 2007, 10:00 pm
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You forgot to tell him to use 900F soldering tips....LOL


>
>> Thanks to everyone who has posted on the subject. I've been polishing
>> my glasscutting skills. They were pretty darned rusty. I've got a
>> Worden Tulip mold coming. I was careful (I hope) to not get one with
>> too big of pieces like javahut suggested. I could just wait until it
>> gets here and read the directions first, but I do have question. A
>> book I was recently looking at showed the only thing supporting the
>> lamp as a metal cap soldered onto the top. Is that really enough to
>> support a lamp? I notice that the Odyssey lamps have got a cap, a
>> ring, and something else supporting the lamp.
>>
>> The people I ordered the mold from recommended that I get the 4" cap
>> for the top and support it from the bottom with a slightly larger cap,
>> and somehow squish them together. Does this sound valid?
>
>
> Sure it will work, but keep in mind the forces on your lamp, that method
> will work IF you do some things similar to what they did back in the good
> ole days, that are brought forward with methods similar to what Odyssey is
> doing.
>
> When you build your shade, at the aperture ring, or top opening, solder in
> a
> heavy copper or brass ring. of some kind. Years ago we used number 10
> copper wire, bent around a propane tank, or something similar. Use 1/8 in
> welding rod or brass rod from the hardware store, bend it around something
> slightly larger in diameter, and squeeze it into size just before
> installing
> it, and solder it in place.
>
> I want to emphasize this, but not be mistaken for yelling, ONLY TACK IT
> IN
> 3 PLACES equidistant around the circumference of the ring until the shade
> is
> off the mold. attach the bottom rim to the shade THEN level the shade by
> the aperture ring. If you run into trouble when you get to that point,
> post
> but DO NOT fill that gap between ring and glass before you post that you
> are
> confused. The solution is very simple, but if you fill the solder area in
> first, it is much more work.
>
> Once that ring is in place, if you want to use a "wheel" as does odyssey ,
> or use another cap under with one over it, you can do so easily without
> fear
> that the upward pull of the bottom cap, and the downward sucking of the
> earth,(gravity) along with the weight of those 3 lbs of solder pulling
> downward, won't pull the bottom cap right up thru your fine tight lines on
> the lamp shade.
>
> Is that detail enough? Feel like somebody asked what time it was and I
> told
> them how to build a watch, sorry about that, I must be "jonesing" from no
> activity on the board in so long!! not even a good catfight.
>
>



Posted by Michael on September 5, 2007, 6:28 am
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Javahut wrote:

Is that detail enough? Feel like somebody asked what time it was and
I told them how to build a watch, sorry about that, I must be
"jonesing" from no activity on the board in so long!! not even a good
catfight.

***************
Thank you! I do have an additional question. Is the copper or brass
ring something that should always be used in addition to a single cap,
or are you saying this is an additional piece I should use if I am
using two caps, one on top and one on bottom?

Michael



Posted by Javahut on September 5, 2007, 8:13 am
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> Javahut wrote:
>
> Is that detail enough? Feel like somebody asked what time it was and
> I told them how to build a watch, sorry about that, I must be
> "jonesing" from no activity on the board in so long!! not even a good
> catfight.
>
> ***************
> Thank you! I do have an additional question. Is the copper or brass
> ring something that should always be used in addition to a single cap,
> or are you saying this is an additional piece I should use if I am
> using two caps, one on top and one on bottom?


Should always be used......think about it for a second, the glass at the top
is only attached , to anything, by the single solder line attached to a thin
piece of tape. the ring acts a unifying structural element so that a cap or
wheel or what ever is exerting pressure on the whole area instead of one
spot.

It looks good too, if done with some finesse.



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