Worden and Odyssey Lamps

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Subject Author Date
Worden and Odyssey Lamps Michael 08-02-2007
Posted by glassman on September 5, 2007, 7:35 am
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> Thanks to everyone who has posted on the subject. I've been polishing
> my glasscutting skills. They were pretty darned rusty. I've got a
> Worden Tulip mold coming. I was careful (I hope) to not get one with
> too big of pieces like javahut suggested. I could just wait until it
> gets here and read the directions first, but I do have question. A
> book I was recently looking at showed the only thing supporting the
> lamp as a metal cap soldered onto the top. Is that really enough to
> support a lamp?



A copperfoil lamp with a cap is enough for most. We solder a thin wire
around the skirt as well to keep it from separating years down the road.

--
JK Sinrod
www.SinrodStudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com



Posted by Michael on September 5, 2007, 8:37 pm
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Thanks, JK and Javahut. I have been giving the support a lot of
thought, and the idea of just the cap soldered to the top of thin
copper tape with adhesive holding it onto a few small glass pieces is
scary, even if they are reinforced with a fat coating of solder. I am
going to be inclined to reinforce as much as I can without impacting
the aesthetics. I would probably go with the ring/wheel/cap Olympia
setup except the combo for a 4 inch set is over $50. At least on my
first few lamps I'm not going to be concerned with matching originals,
so that's just a little heavy on the cost.

I am going to go with your suggestions. A wire ring soldered in the
center and maybe the second lower cap sound like a sturdy but low
dollar solution. I also like the idea of soldering a thin wire around
the skirt.

Thanks again, Michael


Posted by glassman on September 5, 2007, 11:08 pm
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> Thanks, JK and Javahut. I have been giving the support a lot of
> thought, and the idea of just the cap soldered to the top of thin
> copper tape with adhesive holding it onto a few small glass pieces is
> scary, even if they are reinforced with a fat coating of solder. I am
> going to be inclined to reinforce as much as I can without impacting
> the aesthetics. I would probably go with the ring/wheel/cap Olympia
> setup except the combo for a 4 inch set is over $50. At least on my
> first few lamps I'm not going to be concerned with matching originals,
> so that's just a little heavy on the cost.
>
> I am going to go with your suggestions. A wire ring soldered in the
> center and maybe the second lower cap sound like a sturdy but low
> dollar solution. I also like the idea of soldering a thin wire around
> the skirt.
>
> Thanks again, Michael
>

I've made not hundreds but thousands of lamps. All had one cap on top
soldered into all the meeting leadlines. Haven't had one come back in over
30 years. But..................... I fix about 1 lamp a week that was made
overseas where the cap popped off. The most common reasons are: the cap
was tacked in only a few places and the customer used a 200 watt bulb. By
all means do what you like, overkill is a good thing when you don't need to
make money on it.


--
JK Sinrod
www.SinrodStudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com



Posted by Michael on September 7, 2007, 10:35 pm
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I got a big (for me) glass order yesterday. I was really excited.
Like a child on Christmas morning. My 16" Worden tulip lamp mold
came, too. I about passed out from shock when I saw it uses over 500
parts. Darn! I never imagined so many pieces. None of the cuts are
difficult. Just small pieces so accuracy will count.

I didn't see any recommendation on copper tape size. Maybe I didn't
look close enough. I figure 3/16". Does that sound right?

Thanks, Michael


Posted by Javahut on September 8, 2007, 12:19 pm
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> I got a big (for me) glass order yesterday. I was really excited.
> Like a child on Christmas morning. My 16" Worden tulip lamp mold
> came, too. I about passed out from shock when I saw it uses over 500
> parts. Darn! I never imagined so many pieces. None of the cuts are
> difficult. Just small pieces so accuracy will count.
>
> I didn't see any recommendation on copper tape size. Maybe I didn't
> look close enough. I figure 3/16". Does that sound right?
>
> Thanks, Michael
>
Use 3/16, but really depends on your glass, if you use alot of Youghiogheny
Stipple, you may want to re-think that, unless you like real tiny lead
lines. remember, the lead line is the support and skeleton of the shade,
don't under estimate the importance of those lines.

another bit of advice, don't count pieces,

just build it because you like it, and stay at it until it is done. Little
bit every day.

Did you say you wanted a Wisteria? got that too.



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