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Posted by on July 24, 2006, 3:16 pm
Please log in for more thread options > Contemplating the graph that shows 1095 has a peak on torsional
> impact when tempered to 325 F and that drops off at tempertures
> from there to 600 F or more (don't have the graph in front of me),
> I got to wondering about that weak area that would exist between
> the spine and edge when differentially tempering a knife and if
> perhaps it would make sense when tempering to 325 F to leave the
> whole of the knife full hard?
That peak is a "machine measured strength" just like it's a machine
measured fact that the "stiffness" of mild steel and heat treated
4140 (like a wrench) are the same only the yield strengths are
different.
To your hand, the "all hard" knife will "feel" weak. :/
Even tho it isn't.
Making knives that way is exactly what I do, because all I really
care about is edge holding. Since I give them away, I don't have
a problem with anybody complaining at me neither. ;)
There are two-edges at the back of a knife if you grind it nice and
square and leave them "sharp". Peeling carrots is one use another
is reeming a fresh cut piece of pipe another is sharpening a factory
knife. ;)
> Also would this make a differential quench preferable to
> differential temper and if so does it make a difference between
> edge quenching and clay coating?
The drastic dip in the graph is also due to the "1 hour draw".
A quick (and dirty;) blacksmith type draw produces different
results. Danggit, I've never found strength tests covering
"blacksmith type" "quick tempering" methods. :/
Know of any? Anyone? :)
Either way this is my newest-latest interest so thanks for the cool
post. :) Now if I could only find some resources that covered our
questions. :/
> Sitting here looking at this, I feel these questions aren't fully
> formed. Hopefully y'all understand what I'm getting at.
> ron
"I got to wondering about that weak area that would exist between
the spine and edge when differentially tempering a knife...
There's got to be a hundred (valid?) methods to make a "tough knife"
with a 66hrc edge... many of which have been, and still are I guess,
thought of as "secret".
I'd like to get all of them out in the open and discuss the pros and
cons of them. Someday I'd like to make a "tough knife" with a 66hrc
edge that has a "spring" back.
Alvin in AZ
ps- I re-arched my leak springs on my '75 F150 using a 10# and a
16# sledge hammers and now need to un-do some of it especially
on the passenger side... springs can be tough as nails ;)
pps- they didn't "settle" at all!
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