help-position of anvil to forge?

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help-position of anvil to forge? Ted Walker 12-04-2007
Posted by Ted Walker on December 4, 2007, 5:34 pm
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I am setting up a shop before having done any work. If I have a rectangular
forge in front of me and I'm right handed, will I want the anvil to the
right or left of the forge? Why? Where would you put the quench barrel
relative to these? Thanks for any help!!



Posted by Stuart on December 4, 2007, 5:54 pm
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> I am setting up a shop before having done any work. If I have a
> rectangular forge in front of me and I'm right handed, will I want the
> anvil to the right or left of the forge? Why? Where would you put the
> quench barrel relative to these? Thanks for any help!!

I'm afraid there is no hard and fast rule on the above. It's whatever you
find most comfortable for yourself, paying due regard to the space you
have around the hearth and the size of work you will be doing.

--
Stuart Winsor

From is valid but subject to change without notice if it gets spammed.

For Barn dances and folk evenings in the Coventry and Warwickshire area
See: http://www.barndance.org.uk

Posted by Trevor Jones on December 4, 2007, 7:08 pm
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Stuart wrote:
>
>>I am setting up a shop before having done any work. If I have a
>>rectangular forge in front of me and I'm right handed, will I want the
>>anvil to the right or left of the forge? Why? Where would you put the
>>quench barrel relative to these? Thanks for any help!!
>
>
> I'm afraid there is no hard and fast rule on the above. It's whatever you
> find most comfortable for yourself, paying due regard to the space you
> have around the hearth and the size of work you will be doing.
>
Ditto above.

Arrange it so it works for you, and the work you want to do.

Same goes for the direction the horn faces, when you position the anvil.
Tradition puts the horn on the left, IIRC, for a right handed smith.
For some things I have done, that required repetetive use of both the
face, and a cutoff hardy, like square nails, I found that by cranking
the anvil end for end, I could leave the hardie in place, with no risk
of whacking my fingers off on it, as it was now on the far side of the
hammerhead.

Sometimes it's good to be able to play with the layout, or at least
have stuff that's semi mobile, to adjust for the usage.

The shop that I used the most, had the forge set up with the anvil at
the smiths back, within arms reach. The slack tub was to the immediate
right of the forge, and was a source for water to use when making and
managing the fire, as well as being ready to hand when required to use
to quench metal or cool a tool.
Immediate to the left of the forge, was a leg vise,mounted to a steel
post/truck rim combination. Sturdy enough, and mobile enough.

If you were wondering about the water and the fire, the coal we were
using was mostly fines, and once a fire was lit, coal fines and water
slurry would be built up around it to coke off. You got in the habit of
making sure there was a bit of coke around for the next relight.

Cheers
Trevor Jones


Posted by Ted Walker on December 7, 2007, 5:52 pm
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Thanks to all who answered. Needless to say my forge is stationary but I
was trying to figure out where to install forge to allow me to arrange
anvil, slack tub, post vice (yes I have one but forgot about it -thanks) &
work area around it the best. I was going to permanently mount the anvil to
the concrete floor but am now reconsidering putting it on one of those
homemade stands filled with sand or a banded stump. I like the suggestion
about mounting tools storage on wall vs. in work area where they are pretty
but get in the way. I understood the deal about a baler flywheel to provide
the wt. for a post vice but I'd think the weight vs. moving the vice would
negate each other - why not just bolt to floor w/ plate steel and a wood or
metal post? Again - thanks for the help in getting setup!
Ted

> Stuart wrote:
>>
>>>I am setting up a shop before having done any work. If I have a
>>>rectangular forge in front of me and I'm right handed, will I want the
>>>anvil to the right or left of the forge? Why? Where would you put the
>>>quench barrel relative to these? Thanks for any help!!
>>
>>
>> I'm afraid there is no hard and fast rule on the above. It's whatever you
>> find most comfortable for yourself, paying due regard to the space you
>> have around the hearth and the size of work you will be doing.
>>
> Ditto above.
>
> Arrange it so it works for you, and the work you want to do.
>
> Same goes for the direction the horn faces, when you position the anvil.
> Tradition puts the horn on the left, IIRC, for a right handed smith. For
> some things I have done, that required repetetive use of both the face,
> and a cutoff hardy, like square nails, I found that by cranking the anvil
> end for end, I could leave the hardie in place, with no risk of whacking
> my fingers off on it, as it was now on the far side of the hammerhead.
>
> Sometimes it's good to be able to play with the layout, or at least have
> stuff that's semi mobile, to adjust for the usage.
>
> The shop that I used the most, had the forge set up with the anvil at the
> smiths back, within arms reach. The slack tub was to the immediate right
> of the forge, and was a source for water to use when making and managing
> the fire, as well as being ready to hand when required to use to quench
> metal or cool a tool.
> Immediate to the left of the forge, was a leg vise,mounted to a steel
> post/truck rim combination. Sturdy enough, and mobile enough.
>
> If you were wondering about the water and the fire, the coal we were
> using was mostly fines, and once a fire was lit, coal fines and water
> slurry would be built up around it to coke off. You got in the habit of
> making sure there was a bit of coke around for the next relight.
>
> Cheers
> Trevor Jones
>
>



Posted by BradK on December 8, 2007, 4:38 am
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>... I understood the deal about a baler flywheel to provide
> the wt. for a post vice but I'd think the weight vs. moving the vice would
> negate each other - why not just bolt to floor w/ plate steel and a wood or
> metal post? Again - thanks for the help in getting setup!
> Ted
>
OK, so I haven't mounted my post vice yet. But it seems to me the
reason for the post is to withstand banging. Banging on anchors
loosen them. And repeated shocks wear around concrete or wood (my
guess for your floor). The flywheel would provide two important
functions. First, provide a massive inertia reservoir, similar to an
anvil, that would provide a sturdy support for the post vice, with a
dynamic mount - very little random motion between vice and the
mounting (the flywheel). The flywheel also presents a very large,
relative; surface to the floor, reducing wear on the floor. With the
flywheel you don't wear out your anchors to the floor. Bolting to the
floor isn't a good way to manage vibrations/impacts, or my anvil would
be bolted down. Instead I put a lot of thought and adjustment into my
anvil stand - and it isn't bolted down.

Luck!

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