homemade forge questions

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homemade forge questions charles 11-27-2005
Posted by charles on November 27, 2005, 4:04 am
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Do people ever successfully use 55 gallon drums to make forges.?
I wondering if such would have a large enough diameter for a 'newbie' to
start with?
I'm considering putting 2 inches of firebrick in the bottom with a rim about
8 inches higher, for the coal.
Then welding on bipod legs with a wheel barrel type third support, making it
movable. 2 slide out pipe handles. A breeze protector and a smoke cone
would finish it. I've located a hand forge blower setup..complete with
tuyree.
I would sure appreciate any comments.
. . . charlie



Posted by Greyangel on November 27, 2005, 12:57 pm
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My range of experience isn't broad but it's been my observation that you
need a structure to hold your insulation together and that's about it. The
more beating the forge will get the stouter the structure needs to be. I
use a gas forge that is not much more that inswool held together with wire
mesh. If you're doing coal and using brick for insulation then you want a
reasonably sturdy structure to hold it together... Don't see why a cut off
55 gallan drum won't do the trick.

GA

> Do people ever successfully use 55 gallon drums to make forges.?
> I wondering if such would have a large enough diameter for a 'newbie' to
> start with?
> I'm considering putting 2 inches of firebrick in the bottom with a rim
about
> 8 inches higher, for the coal.
> Then welding on bipod legs with a wheel barrel type third support, making
it
> movable. 2 slide out pipe handles. A breeze protector and a smoke cone
> would finish it. I've located a hand forge blower setup..complete with
> tuyree.
> I would sure appreciate any comments.
> . . . charlie
>
>



Posted by Charly the Bastard on November 27, 2005, 6:19 pm
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charles wrote:

> Do people ever successfully use 55 gallon drums to make forges.?
> I wondering if such would have a large enough diameter for a 'newbie' to
> start with?
> I'm considering putting 2 inches of firebrick in the bottom with a rim about
> 8 inches higher, for the coal.
> Then welding on bipod legs with a wheel barrel type third support, making it
> movable. 2 slide out pipe handles. A breeze protector and a smoke cone
> would finish it. I've located a hand forge blower setup..complete with
> tuyree.
> I would sure appreciate any comments.
> . . . charlie

Okay, structural sheetmetal 101. If you cut a hole in the bottom of the barrel
to let the air in, you need to reinforce the opening with a 'doubler plate'. The
doubler plate is made from the same sheetmetal as the barrel. If the inlet is
round, then the doubler needs to be at least three times the opening diameter.
Fab this out of the top of the barrel and rivit or bolt/screw to the bottom. Two
rings of six fasteners staggered around the rim should do it. The purpose of the
doubler is to spread the load of the bricks, etc., around the opening, which
acts as a stress concentration, into the main body of the bottom. Metal moves
under heat, it gets bigger. This movement will be concentrated around the
opening, hence the need for reinforcment. I'd go with two layers of firebrick
in the bottom, so when the top layer gets fouled with flux, you can change it
out. Firebrick and refractory are considered expendable tooling. It's liable to
weigh in a fair amount, so be sure to consider where the center of balance is
when you build a stand. A forge that falls over in the middle of the job is a
Bad Thing. Make the footprint on the ground larger than the diameter of the
barrel. the higher you stand it, the wider the base needs to be, or you need to
load the base with weight to make it stable. With these thoughs in mind, go for
it. One other thing; a deep small diameter fire concentrates more heat than a
large flat fire. You're not doing burgers. Leave some room down from the lip, a
refractory bucket if you will.

Charly



Posted by Andy Dingley on November 28, 2005, 12:46 pm
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wrote:

>Do people ever successfully use 55 gallon drums to make forges.?

You can't make a long-lasting _barbecue_ out of an oil drum. Find
something thicker. If you're building a duck's nest, then a truck brake
drum is a good start (actually IMHE buses and post-office vans are
better, as they wear their brake drums out more frequently). You could
also cut the end off a propane cylinder (cutting advice and safety
notes posted in the past)

Oil drums though - you heat them once and you've lost the paint. Put
them through two winters after that and you're looking at rust holes in
them. Just not worth the trouble.

Personally, given that firebricks are more usually square than round,
I'd build a rectangular forge out of L-section and sheet. Weld it if you
can, otherwise bolt the corners.

Posted by Doc on December 3, 2005, 12:56 pm
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charles wrote:
> Do people ever successfully use 55 gallon drums to make forges.?
> I wondering if such would have a large enough diameter for a 'newbie' to
> start with?
> I'm considering putting 2 inches of firebrick in the bottom with a rim about
> 8 inches higher, for the coal.
> Then welding on bipod legs with a wheel barrel type third support, making it
> movable. 2 slide out pipe handles. A breeze protector and a smoke cone
> would finish it. I've located a hand forge blower setup..complete with
> tuyree.
> I would sure appreciate any comments.
> . . . charlie


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