rounding over the sharp edge of a cut neon tube

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rounding over the sharp edge of a cut neon tube William Wixon 02-03-2010
Posted by William Wixon on February 3, 2010, 2:46 am
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hi,
wondering if i could ask a question, worried it's been asked many times
before, apologies if it has.
i got a few 4 foot long broken lengths of neon tube. i want to cut them
into approximately 16 inch long pieces and heat the cut ends to round over
and smooth off the sharp broken edges. i was told i could use a
("bernzomatic") propane torch to heat the glass enough so it melts (and
rounds over the sharp edge). i tried it and much to my surprise it worked.
i tried it on a few more pieces and i got erratic results. on some it
worked fine, on others it caused a crack to run down the length of the tube,
about 3 or 4 inches. this is what i don't want to happen. can anyone give
me tips or pointers on how to heat the end to round off the sharp edge
without causing the tubes to crack? i am so much hoping i'm not going to
need an annealing oven (cause i don't have one!).

b.w.



Posted by Joe on February 3, 2010, 9:17 am
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On Wed, 3 Feb 2010 01:46:51 -0600, "William Wixon"

>hi,
> wondering if i could ask a question, worried it's been asked many times
>before, apologies if it has.
> i got a few 4 foot long broken lengths of neon tube. i want to cut them
>into approximately 16 inch long pieces and heat the cut ends to round over
>and smooth off the sharp broken edges. i was told i could use a
>("bernzomatic") propane torch to heat the glass enough so it melts (and
>rounds over the sharp edge). i tried it and much to my surprise it worked.
>i tried it on a few more pieces and i got erratic results. on some it
>worked fine, on others it caused a crack to run down the length of the tube,
>about 3 or 4 inches. this is what i don't want to happen. can anyone give
>me tips or pointers on how to heat the end to round off the sharp edge
>without causing the tubes to crack? i am so much hoping i'm not going to
>need an annealing oven (cause i don't have one!).
>
>b.w.
>
Welcome to the wonderful world of glass! The best you can hope for is
to lightly play the flame over a good bit of the length (4 - 6"?) to
prevent just the end from getting hot, causing the sharp transition
from hot to cold, and the resulting thermal shock. If you have an OA
rig (and since you post to rcm, there's a chance you do), try using it
(careful - it's a lot hotter!) gently, and "insulate" the warmed areas
by turning down the O2, to coat the glass with soot (after you warm
it); this will help the glass to cool more slowly & evenly. Don't get
soot on the end when it's molten, though, or it might get embedded
into the lip.

Generally, the thicker the glass, the more problems you will see with
trying to do this sort of operation. The soot coating is a great way
to anneal thin pieces - regardless of their overall size. For somewhat
more mass, dropping the finished piece into a container of vermiculite
will do much the same. Above that, you need an annealing oven.

What are you gonna do with the tubing? Is it real neon tubing (clear
glass) or does it have the phosphor coating? Just curious.

Joe

Posted by DeMarie on February 6, 2010, 3:11 pm
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Hi, there is another trick you can use - get one of those single
electric burners - really cheap at walmarts - or try out the local
thrift store - you can also use a cheap crock pot for this. Fill a
can vermiculite (for a crock pot skip this step, and just fill the
pot). Turn your heating on to warm and place the tip of the rod into
the vermiculite, let this sit for about 30 minutes then turn up to
hot, let sit for another 30 minutes - take the rod out of the warmer
(use a heat glove if the other end is hot) and then slowly introduce
the tip into the flame, this will greatly increase your odds on not
cracking. Place the heated end back into the warm vermiculite and let
the rod slowly cool (this really doesn't anneal as well as a kiln, but
it is better then nothing). Your other option is to just score the
glass and do a clean break, then take a dremel tool with a glass
polishing disk (they have them at the hardware store) and polish your
edge.


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